We woke up again at 6am this morning, though both Laurel and I opened our eyes at some point during the 5 o'clock hour hoping for more sleep. The Caddo grasslands area is primarily wooded, though there is spacing between the trees and little undergrowth. As we turned off the gravel drive onto the park road, I looked east towards the hazy rising sun. It was brewing a hot day indeed, but during the early morning at least it was very reasonable. The park road rolled easily beneath us, but during the night it had been windy and that wind had stuck around. When our route took us briefly south to circle back to a northern road, pedaling against the wind was slow and hard. The wind has been primarily up from the south to north, but there has not been much to hamper or significantly aid us until today, although we did deal with some wind yesterday when the roads were so exposed. When we were able to turn north, we were speedy indeed.
The land has been looking less green ad forested and far more grassy; it is also easier to see into the distance. It is not necessarily flat, as there have been many hills, but they are gentler and longer. We are also stronger. At least, I feel that I am. Working up the hills is not nearly so miserable, and though our panniers haven't lightened, I do not notice the weight as prominently (though notice it I do!).
The Caddo national grasslands are not very far from the Oklahoma border, perhaps 18 miles. After 6 days of biking in Texas averaging bout 60-70 mile days, we approached the Oklahoma border. I definitely felt some sense of sadness to leave Texas behind after seeing the beautiful land there and meeting so many truly kind people. We came to a long metal bridge over the Red River, and with a goodbye to Texas, we had crossed the border. Almost a surreal feeling, and a very concrete accomplishment. We both agreed, if nothing else we have managed to bike through Texas, and along much of the pipeline. To put the size of Texas into perspective, it will take us only about 4 days to cross Oklahoma, and 3 days to cross Kansas compared to 6 full days for Texas alone.
We crossed the border on highway 75, I believe. This took us north for a stretch, and we flew swiftly along. For the first time in perhaps three days, I shifted my left gears from one to two. This lasted only briefly, however. My intended route to Atoka OK was then supposed to follow 22 north, and head in more of a straight line approximately with the pipeline. We overshot the turn off by only a couple hundred feet, and instead of just turning back to get on this route. Laurel said we could just continue on the same road. I was very wary of this alternative route for a number of reasons. One is that I knew the pipeline was on the eastern side of the upcoming county, and that to continue west on 75 would take us too far west and through Durant on the opposite end of the county -- I had been looking forward to this section, in fact, because I was pleased to find a route to Atoka that appeared to follow the pipeline so similarly. Secondly, the to go west meant the wind was against us, cutting across us at an angle and we had already experienced how much this slows us down. Thirdly, I had looked at this route option on google maps while planning the trip, and knew off the top of my head that it would bump our 70 mile day up to 84 miles. Laurel said it would likely add only a few miles, but I felt otherwise. I should have been firm and expressed clearly my opinion, but before I knew it we were continuing towards Durant. I am not good at being firm in my suggestions, and needed to speak up explicitly. And sure enough, the wind slowed us down to a grudging snail pace, up and down hills. And we weren't even covering pipeline ground. I will admit, this section of the ride was so challenging physically because of the wind, but also mentally because I felt it was not the right way. Laurel and I both struggled with this section, and kept hoping desperately to get through it and to when we would turn northwards again. But I suppose it is always possible that we could have faced other troubles or challenges on my original route as well. What was done was done.
We limped into the next town after perhaps 10 or so mile on this stretch. We both drank a liter of chocolate milk each. I felt in an upset mood because of the route, which I has some trouble shaking. It took us a while more to come to Durant--and I felt sour about this, because as explained above, I had specifically routed us not to go through Durant--and then connected eventually with highway 69.
Until about 11 O clock, the temperature was manageable. But as the afternoon progressed and the day heated up, the sun really seemed to beat down on us. Durant did not feel like a friendly town to me, and the shoulder and traffic were not great. After we had gotten through Durant, we had about 30 or 40 miles to go. At one point, we shifted onto the old highway 69, which took us through the tiny dusty town of Caddo. Laurel described it, and perhaps accurately enough, as a ghost town though there were some other people about. The air was so hot at this point. We chatted amicably as we continued down the bumpy old highway, free of all but a scant few trucks, until it abruptly ended and we were back on the busy highway. Nevertheless, the shoulder was smooth and we moved very quickly, as well as having the wind in our favor. For a short stretch, even the shoulder disappeared and we walked our bikes through the grass-- which was not bad, and much more pleasant than the stress of whizzing traffic-- until it reappeared.
On the outer edge of Atoka, perhaps 5 miles from the city itself, we stopped again at a gas station. As we sat down to drink some juices, an older man wearing an army vest and army hat, with one good eye sat down a few tables away to eat an icecream sandwich. His name was Phillip, and he asked us if we were riding, and we explained our trip and spoke with him. He informed us that the upcoming couple of miles approaching Atoka had no shoulder and it would be dangerous to bike there, but that he was a local and on bike himself, and that he could lead us to the backway which would take us by bike around the bad section of 69 until it became safer for bikes. He needed to pass that way anyways to pay his water bill. It turns out he is 65 some years old, and a Vietnam veteran. He was so pleasant to speak with for that short mile or so before we parted ways and he told us the turns to take to reconnect with 69. He spoke a little bit about his sadness not to have been treated properly after returning from the war, and I told him that I appreciate what he did and thanked him. I am staunchly against war, but absolutely dislike the way that so many Vietnam veterans were treated--many without the support or kindness they deserved to help them heal. I hope that this helped him at least some. I gave him one of my website cards and told him if he was ever in Minnesota, he could call on me. He also gave us some tips for dogs, saying that carrying a switch might be a good idea, even though most of the dogs mostly bark and not bite -- you never know when you might need to actually defend yourself. He wished us luck many times over again, and told us he was grateful to run into us as we pass through life, and for the story it was to have met us on our trip. This back section was very beautiful, and when it reconnected again with 69 as he had said, there was a shoulder once more. What a wonderful help! Perhaps our oaths with cross again someday.
The last couple miles seemed to stretch on forever. At last, we appeared to be coming into town. There was a walmart, where I had been told I might be able to find pepper spray. At last, I have a small can for emergencies in case we do meet an especially viscous dog. I think yelling should suffice-- I have an especially good bark now myself -- but it is probably wise even so.
There was heavy traffic that we had to cross to reach the motel, Hiway Inn and the sun was really wearing on me. I have some blisters up my left arm from burning a few times and sweating, unfortunately. The receptionist was very nice, an Indian family, and when we opened the door to the room, we were surprised how large it is. For $55, so about $28 each, I am extremely impressed. We can't stay in motels forever, but it definitely helps recharge us.
I was feeling tense, and a little frustrated with some parts of the day, and needed some time apart so I walked over to the nearby mcdonalds and ate an icecream cone. I called my dad and talked for awhile -- I am very grateful for my family, especially my dad, my mom, my aunt Didi, and my siblings. They are all worried for me on this trip, but I think they are also proud of me. And always willing to help me, even in such ambitious ideas as this trip.
As I rode today, my mind kept returning to the pipeline and the land around me. I kept thinking of others who are resisting the pipeline and reliance on oil, and of my desire to protect the earth. I feel that a bike ride along the pipeline may do very little to forestall it, but it has undoubtedly hardened my dedication and already given me a broader idea of the situation. I hope to meet more people with whom to discuss the pipeline in the days to come. I have a hope that we can inspire others to bike the pipeline, or to take a similar stance and find that they have immense power within them to so incredible things. There has been pain and effort, and also joy and beauty on the trip so far, and I am grateful that I am able to have such an experience. I am grateful to my body for this far putting up with me, and for growing stronger, and to my will for urging me onwards, as well as the many people who have given us encouragement. I am grateful to the land, and that I might travel across it, and that my heart and feet may connect to it as we roll across this great earth.
Tomorrow, we head towards Seminole and Shawnee OK. Let us get to know Oklahoma!
Bridge crossing over the Red River into Oklahoma. Goodbye, Texas!
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