Friday (12/21) -- Waking up before the sunrise in my chilly room, I made a quick bowl of oatmeal, drank a cup of hot cocoa, and suited up. I gave my little dorm room a last glance, took a deep breath, and I was headed out the door around 5:40AM to try to catch the 6:15AM train from Sapporo Station to the Shin-Chitose airport. Strapping my dufflebag to my shoulder and glancing at my watch, I was so nervous about making it in time I decided to call a taxi to save myself the stress. In retrospect, this probably took more time than had I just speed walked, but I was taking no chances. I jumped out of the taxi and hurried into Sapporo Station. I had never bought train tickets departing Sapporo city itself, and certainly never to the airport. When I first arrived in Hokkaido,  I was lucky to have two of my labmates/my supporter pick me up. I was nervous about figuring out the train platform and buying the correct ticket fare from the machine. But I located the machine, bought a 1200yen ($14) ticket, and it printed out successfully. I grabbed it and hurried in through the gates about 6:12AM. I was relieved to notice people with luggage, clearly headed for the same destination as I. Lines formed, and the train appeared. Unlike regular subway trains, which have simple benches such as those on the L in Chicago, this train had rows of separate seats. I was surprised, and mildly confused by the system of "reserved" cars (how do you reserve a seat besides buying a ticket, I wondered?) and by the fact that the backs of the seats actually swiveled both directions for when the train itself went in the opposite direction. At first I sat the wrong direction, before noticing everyone else and switching it around. It was still completely dark outside, and although my eyes were wide with nervousness, they were sleepy otherwise. I enjoyed looking out the window nonetheless, at the twinkling lights in the sea of dark. Faintly, blue crept into the horizon. Reaching the airport stop at about 7AM, I exited the train and followed the signs up to the airport entrance to locate my airline name. I took out my precious printed boarding pass, and after observing a few others, stepped up to a table to ask a question but instead they just stamped my boarding pass and ushered me through security. I was apprehensive about sending my bag through security because I was not certain if it would be too big to be carry-on (it wasn't, as it turns out, because I saw folks with bags twice its size), and also because I was harboring two jars of peanut butter in it. In Japan, domestic flights are far more relaxed than in the U.S., and people sometimes even travel with such items as sake bottles! But I was not certain of the rules for peanut butter. Sure enough, it was no trouble at all! I wound up through security, puzzled by the ease. I hadn't even taken off my shoes! The Shin-Chitose airport is quite small, and I found my gate a minute's walk away. I had been so nervous about arriving on time, I had ended up about an hour earlier than necessary. I probably could have arrived 45 minutes before hand and been just fine. But I felt proud--I had made it through, made it to the airport, gotten my bag through, and had not caused any international incidents. I was wearing numerous layers of clothes to ward of the Sapporo winter, but in the airport (as in most buildings in Hokkaido) it was quite hot. I waited for the plane to arrive, listened closely to the announcements, and got on board. To my surprise, I had all three seats in the row to myself since the flight was not crowded. I looked out the window at the snow and ice, and hilly horizon now in the sunrise. As the plane took off, I bid them farewell, curious to see if I would feel the same separation I had felt upon leaving behind my home. Instead, I felt a growing sense of excitement and accomplishment. I napped a little on the short flight (about an hour and a half flight). I looked out the window watching the cities of Honshu whiz past on the ground below, thinking back to the very first time I had seen the ground of Japan on my first flight to Narita 3 months prior. Before I knew it, we had landed. I collected my bag, and exited. The friend that I was planning to meet would not be arriving until about 5PM, which I had not fully realized when I purchased my ticket. So I found myself with quite a bit of time to spare, but not quite enough to wander too far. I figured out how to take the connection bus between Narita Terminal 2 and 1. My first goal was to scope out where my friend's flight would be landing and where she would be exiting. This was rather overwhelming at first, because I did not want to miss her or lose her in the airport so I wanted to be exact. Fortunately, as I slowly gathered, all flights are funneled through the same exit. I checked her flight and airline multiple times, just to be safe. Afterwards, I explored the "airport mall" of the airport, then decided to try to attempt a little exploration. It was only about 11AM, and so there was considerable time left and I did not want to spend it all in the airport twiddling my thumbs. I asked at an information desk about seeing the city of Narita, which is only about a 15 minute subway ride from the airport. I decided to try this. I checked my duffle bag for safekeeping at the airport, pulled out my backpack, and filled it with maps and pamphlets. Regrettably, my fear of trains and subways near Tokyo did not fail me. Everything was so complicated and fast paced, I tried my best to sort things out but it was so overwhelming and unfamiliar. I did my best to follow the directions I had been given, bought a ticket, and tried to decipher the correct train. When it arrived, I got on, but while trying to catch a glimpse of the blurred signs as they past, I second-guessed my self and hurriedly got off after only two stops thinking that it was going in the wrong way. In fact, I had only traveled back from Terminal 1 (international flights) to Terminal 2 (domestic flights, primarily)--the very same thing I had done earlier on the connection bus! I felt like a fool. I stood waiting for another train, but when I could not read what train it was I was to nervous to jump on (as I later realized, there are "normal" trains, "local" trains, "express" trains, etc. Local means it goes to all stops, express means it skips some. I had assumed these all meant they were bound for different places entirely). Gradually, the platform became empty. I was standing all along, except for the train security worker keeping an eye on the tracks and doors when trains arrived. At this point, after becoming so turned around by the trains, and realizing how absolutely on my own I was--how far from everything I knew, and how there would be no one at all to help me--I was distraught and scared. I didn't want to seem so incapable. But I was on the verge of tears at the knowledge of just how intimidated I was. Noticing that I was standing all alone at the tracks and knowing the schedule better than I, he asked where I was trying to go. When I told him sheepishly and shakily, he apologetically informed me that the last train had left a few minutes ago and another would not arrive for about 45 minutes. Tears started to betray me, gathering in the corners of my eyes despite my efforts, and when the worker was distracted by a different train, I ran away, jumping into an elevator to try to collect myself. I tried to re-orient myself and to figure out the next train. Sure enough, it was about 45 minutes wait. I decided to wander once more in the airport mall and try to calm down. I bought a little snack of yogurt-covered cranberries (a real treat in Japan), looked around, and tried to pass the time calmly. The cranberries did me good. It is odd what little things can do to cheer you up. Then I headed back down to the subway for my second try. This time when I got on, even though I was not 100% certain, I decided to stay on the train and just see where I ended up. The worst case is that I would get off again, and come back. Luckily, it seemed to be correct and I was encouraged when I began to hear announcements for Narita. It was not a long ride, but I watched with fascination as green bamboo and trees passed by the windows. The weather was in the high 40s, and felt balmy to me in my many sweaters, and my winter skin. Approaching Narita station, I spied the beautiful top of a temple tucked behind the buildings and houses. I felt more confident. It must be Narita--there is a temple, Shinshou-ji, located in Narita which is one of the main attractions. Oddly enough for such a small town, it is an extremely historic Buddhist temple. I got off the train, tried to locate the "main street", and began to feel much happier. The main street went up and down, packed with small traditional Japanese snack shops, restaurants, food stores, and gift shops. The mainstreet ('omotesando') is supposed to replicate the feel of "old" Japan, I am told. The air smelled delicious, and I even stopped and bought some cooked sweet potato sticks from an old lady vendor. They were delicious. At the end of the "main street" the buildings became larger, and more grandiose. My awe began to grow. This beautiful architecture, these incredible buildings, these are all daily life for the residents of Narita. I was in shock, my fascination increasing with every step. I passed through the gates, observing Buddhist grave stones being carved, then marveled at the steep steps up to the main temple ground. It was incredible. I can barely put into words my awe. I thought I had come to know something of Japan after 3 months, but I realized then how very little I have seen. How many amazing places there are yet to explore. I could not believe that little old me, someone who never imagined being able to travel outside of the U.S., now standing in the midst of such incredible sights. At the top of the steep stairs there was a beautiful, intricate, colorful three-tiered building, and centrally a large temple. Outside, in the middle of the open square, there was a large pot filled with the ashes from burned incense. Ahead of me at the large temple workers were hanging a huge multicolored banner to hang across the roof. I am guessing it was preparation for new years. I went inside and stepped up to the offering box, throwing in a few yen, bowing, clapping, and paying my respects. I was not sure of the layout of the grounds, but I followed a path leading into a more wooded area. This turned out to lead through the Buddhist cemetery. Large stone monuments and gravestones melded seamlessly with the plants and trees. I was followed on this trail by a family with two cheerful, playful children who continued to run up and down on the trail racing. I thought of how normal everything might have felt to them, but how new it was to me. Walking along this path was when the realization of green leaves hit me the strongest. I was surrounded by green and abundant (photosynthesizing!) leaves in December. This moment more than made up for my mishaps earlier, restoring my curiosity and thankfulness. The path continued onwards, down a hill into a carefully kept Japanese-style garden. Walking down the hill, I could see a large pond with a pagoda-style building stretching from the shore. There were gardeners throughout, pruning shrubs, and raking away all leaf-litter. I felt that each inch of the garden, quite open and sparse by western standards, had been carefully groomed. Carefully thought out. As someone studying ecology, I was very aware of how unsustainable such a garden was--how delicate and completely based on human tastes it was. Nonetheless, it was beautiful and certainly a different experience of a garden style. I walked out onto the pagoda, and watched large golden, white, and spotted koi circle in the water below. As I continued on, I wondered how much farther the path would go. It seemed that I had already walked someways, and the grand buildings just kept appearing. Finally, I came to a large fountain and strict, geometric landscaping. Looking upwards, I could see the spire of the temple itself. I climbed the stairs, and before stood the largest building yet. I was again in awe. Keeping a close watch on the time, I decided to continue just a little bit further, passing through more distinctly-Japanese buildings and smaller temples. To my surprise, I emerged back at the start. I had made the whole loop! I had been concerned about the time it would take to walk back, and so it was really quite fortunate and rewarding to have walked through the whole grounds. Satisfied and more than a bit entranced, it was time to go. I bid farewell for the time, bowing at the gate, and heading back to the mainstreet. Towards the end, I stopped to buy an anko (red-bean paste) filled pastry, freshly pressed and still warm. I ate this happily as I walked back to the train. Arriving at the station, an elderly lady noticed the lost look on my face, and asked me where I needed to go. I said the airport, and even when I started walking in the wrong direction, she adamantly and concernedly corrected me. So far I had left two people in my wake to wonder if I would ever reach my goal. (The first was the train conductor) The count would continue, but after my first mishap I was more calm.
I made it back to the airport with plenty of time to spare. But better early than late. And as luck would have it, my friend's flight had suddenly been updated to arrive an hour earlier than scheduled, so I did not have quite as long to wait. I passed the time heading out to the observation deck which directly overlooks the runways as planes land and take off, soaking in the warm weather. As 4:30 approached, I headed down to the exit gate to wait for my friend. I clung close to the gate, watching closely for any sign of her as waves of people came and went with each flight. Then there she was! I was so relieved. I had been nervous that somehow I would miss her, or mistake the location. She had been nervous about this also, because while visiting another friend in Korea once it had taken hours for them to locate each other (all without means of proper communication). I was so excited that, after double checking which train to take into Tokyo towards our hostel, we even headed down into the train station, checking our tickets, before I remembered with distress that I had left my bag for safekeeping at the luggage counter! We had already passed through the train station gates, but I explained to a station security guard and he let me go back through, retrieve my back, and come back in without paying. You will learn that, as a result of my experiences traveling, I have high regard for train station security guards for all the patience and directions they have given me. I explained to my friend that, though I would do my best to navigate successfully, I was far from an expert on Tokyo. Indeed, I admitted, she probably knew just about as much as I did. This is probably an exaggeration, but as far as navigating the Tokyo subways I had my taste when I first arrived, and knew to expect trouble. I knew that on this leg, to get from the airport to Asakusa (where our hostel was located) we would have to switch trains. We got off at a station to transfer, but had a few moments of confusion trying to decipher which train to get on next. I decided then and there just to start asking people when I was unsure. That was quite a wise decision to make, and saved a lot of unnecessary hassle later on. And, it was Japanese language practice anyways. I decided it was silly not to ask for help when needed, and that I would learn with time. I asked a professional looking business man, and he confirmed that it was the correct train and even kept an eye out to make sure we didn't miss it. It was unfortunate that it was already dark, because my friend (Kait!) and I would have liked to see the cityscape. But I am so grateful that, at last, we arrived at the stop as described in the directions I had triple-checked. Next it was up to my phone to help us locate the hostel in the dark. It was only about 7:30PM, but I know that the little ability I have at navigating disappears completely at night. I had written down the address of the hostel just about everywhere possible, and so we were off. We crossed over a large bridge overlooking the Sumida river, and I was proud to be able to point out a few famous landmarks, like the Asahi Beer Factory (on top is a golden sculpture of literally "unidentified" shape), and Sky Tree (the tallest tower in Tokyo). There were a few mis-steps as we sought out the hostel, and the neighborhood became less glamorous and more plain. Not quite the image of Tokyo that my friend (or even I) had. There was a large crane and construction site next to a closed up temple, and then just down the narrow, poorly lit street was our hostel--Khaosan Tokyo Smile. I had warned my friend that I had never stayed there before, and did not know at all what to expect. So it was with trepidation that I stepped inside, and opened the cramped lobby door to find a lounge populated by young people watching TV. The atmosphere was extremely relaxed. I walked towards the desk, and was happy when they greeted me and ushered me over to help. I was even happier to learn that I had actually been successful in making the reservation and that my name appeared on the list. I had feared that perhaps somehow something would go wrong, and we would be left without a place to stay. For the first night, I had managed to reserve a private 'double' bedroom. The day that I made the reservations, everything had suddenly began to fill up for the holiday season, and even as I had clicked to make the reservations they were snatched up. So the private rooms were all taken except for that first night. I had explained this to my friend, hoping she wouldn't mind. I was just glad for a private room the first night, especially so she could get some sleep after a long flight. We were led outside and to a separate building, up a tiny, long, steep staircase and into what appeared to be an apartment. There was a central kitchen/dining room with a young woman sitting reading at the table. We were led up another small staircase and to a bedroom, which would be our room. The receptionist left us to unpack. We unlocked the door, crossing our fingers. Inside it was, as I had expected, very, very small. There was a bunk bed, and a small desk, and really not much more space except for a person to stand. I shrugged--after all, I'm quite used to it--and asked if my friend would be okay. I'm guessing that she was overjoyed about it, but she was open to the experience. I still hadn't eaten dinner, but my friend was really getting sleepy from jetlag although it was only around 8PM. I had wanted to perhaps find a restaurant to give her a good Japanese dinner, but I could tell she would be too tired. As it were, she had packed a subway sandwich in her bag from home, so was all set. We compromised and wandered a short distance to find a konbini, where I bought some onigiri for dinner. I was amused by my friend's reaction to the shared bathroom--to the set up of the shower (which is a showerhead on a cord without exception, because of the Japanese custom of scrubbing/showering first and then getting into a bath) and the fact that the windows were open letting in the night air. It was also interesting to us both that in this shared "house/apartment" (now made into a hostel), the toilet was located across the hall in its own little closet sized room. Although I thought the weather and room were rather warm, my friend thought it was cold and wanted to turn up the heat as high as possible. This made me a little nervous, being in the top bunk next to the heater. But it did make me sleepy, and as a result I fell asleep quite easily with only a sheet over me.
Saturday (2/22) -- When we woke up, it was raining outside. I cracked open our tiny window, and noticed it had quite the view of Sky Tree. I found this amusing, because usually rooms with a view in the U.S. cost extra. Not our tiny room. We packed up our bags again to make the move to the shared "dormitory", since we only had a private room for the night. The dormitory was located in the main hostel building, with the reception lobby. We exchanged our keys, and were shown upstairs. Inside were separate rooms, each with walls lined with wooden boxes. The boxes were stacked like double bunk beds, with four to a wall and sliding doors. I thought they looked cozy. I do not know how my friend felt, but she said she was up for giving it a try. Secretly, I was a little excited and intrigued. How economical, and how fun. As I've explained, all I need is a bed and all this was was just that, a bed. In a box. We put our things inside the boxes, slid shut the doors and locked the little padlock. I put on my raincoat. Our plan for the morning was to find what I have heard is the most renowned art store in Tokyo, called Ito-ya. Ever since arriving in Japan I have been in search of handcrafted Japanese paper, which I admired so much when I was an intern at Minnesota Center for Book Arts during highschool. Furthermore, I have always heard of the craft, skill, and beauty of Japanese paper. Therefore, coming to Japan, I expected to be able to easily locate these treasures. Not so. At least, not so in Sapporo. I have searched endlessly in Sapporo for any semblance of an art supply store or craft store, and though they may exist, they must be mighty well-hidden. I have missed art stores so much, and in fact it has been causing me quite a bit of headache. I had come to the end of my supply of watercolor paper, and search though I may could find no supplies in Sapporo. All the paper labeled as "watercolor" was cheap, flimsy, and not of any decent quality. I always found this to be such a frustration, in a land of such long-marveled papermaking. Now, at last, in Tokyo I had been told that Ito-ya had been around for a long time, and specialized in beautiful paper and art supplies. It was located in Ginza, better yet, which would allow us to see this famous "rich" (and I mean RICH) area of Tokyo. Stepping out the door of the hostel, it was still raining. Because it is technically winter, it was a very cold rain. Secretly, I wanted to find a place for breakfast along the way. I had not yet gauged if my friend was a breakfast eater. I love breakfast. It is by far the best meal (though I like food at anytime). But I did not want to be a bother, so casually mentioned it. As it turns out, my friend is someone whose mood turns a bit foul when they get hungry. Had I known this, I would have been glad to stop immediately to eat. My sister is very similar. Once she starts getting hungry, her temperament changes. This is not so much the case for me, because I rarely feel "hunger" (as much as I love eating). As my friend described me, my temperament for the most part is "homeostatic." I'm "ok" in most situations. Of course, my family may say differently and that is because I only really show more dramatic emotions around those I am extremely comfortable with. (A pity and a privilege for my family, I suppose). We needed to take a subway to reach Ginza in any timely manner from Asakusa. Here I should explain that all these names I will be throwing around are more or less "neighborhoods" of Tokyo. My friend did not allow me quite as much patience as I would have liked in order to navigate with a level head. So when we entered the Asakusa station, feeling pressure from the crowd and from my friend to keep moving and not make her wait, I ended up choosing the wrong train. We got on, and after about ten minutes when we emerged to higher ground and could see out the windows, I could tell that we were headed the wrong way. We jumped off at the next stop, still in the chilly rain. I could sense that my friend was displeased, though she tried to be patient. I had given fair warning that I would make mistakes, but would do my best. And frankly, I do think I did quite a good job throughout, what for being thrown into one of the largest, densest, tangliest metropolitan areas in the world and told "go!" I wasn't quite certain how to get us in the right direction, and there were not a lot of people. But after consulting with a mom and her young child, I took her advice and we waited for another train. Fortunately, this took us towards Ginza. When we got out of the station, I had put the address of the art store in my phone to help us navigate walking. But in the cold, cold rain, holding my phone without my glove on, my hand started to ache with pain. Our umbrellas, which we had borrowed from the hostel, we not keeping us very dry and as useful as my phone is, it takes a little bit for me to orient myself based on the moving pinpoint. My friend, unbeknownst to me becoming more impatient due primarily to her hunger, made me feel as though I was completely inept at navigating. I just move at a slower pace--and I accept that I make mistakes. I felt so bad to not be able to navigate more efficiently in the cold rain, but there was not much to be done. I felt as though even to ask her to stop and let me orient ourselves was frustrating to her. In her defense, it was very unpleasant in the rain, she was hungry, unable to communicate in the language, and also still jet-lagged. Eventually, passing a few restaurants, I asked if we should just stop for lunch. She agreed. I would have liked to search for a better place, but feeling pushed, I suggested the noodle shop next to us that sold soba, udon, and ramen. This was my first experience using the "machine" system of ordering. This means that there is a large machine (like a vending machine) with many buttons and selections. You insert your money, make a selection, and receive a ticket. Then you give the ticket to the waitress, and your meal is prepared. Unfortunately, all the buttons were written in Kanji (save a few), and did not have pictures. I am far from an expert in the names of soba and udon varieties. And as a vegetarian, I dislike not knowing what in the world I am ordering because in Japan 10 out of 10 times it will contain meat. Luckily, the old lady who was the waitress was patient with us beyond all expectation. She explained the ingredients. Still feeling a little rushed, and stressed also by the sudden wave of every middle-aged working man within 5 miles trying to order lunch and squeeze inside the restaurant just after we stepped inside, I didn't really get to look at a lot of options. I suggested she order what the waitress had offered (and which a noodle-slurping construction worker had affirmed mid-slurp was 'delicious'). Having spent most of the time trying to translate for my friend, when it came to be my turn I had almost no time to decide. I hurriedly selected Kitsune Soba, since I am familiar with it. This is just soba noodles in mysterious (probably soy sauce or fish based) broth, and a thin slab of tofu. We were extremely fortunate to snag two bar stools at a counter amidst the frenzy in the tiny shop. We sat down, and soon our bowls were ready. I had forgotten, when we started to eat, how unfamiliar it is for most Americans to eat everything with chopsticks! I am so accustomed to it, the very idea of using a fork nowadays is odd. I often say that I am now out of practice with silverware. But for my friend, understandably, this was a bit of a challenge! She worked valiantly to grip the slippery udon noodles. I was proud of her for sticking with it! Feeling a little warmer and our bellies full, we headed back out into the rain. I still had trouble locating the store, and just when I thought that I might give up because of the cold and nervousness of disappointing my friend, she looked up and there was a small sign for Ito-ya. We had found it! Soggy, squeaky, and shivering, we walked in, realizing suddenly just how bedraggled and out of place we appeared. This is because the first floor of the store is extremely fancy. The first floor is devoted entirely to pens. And not just any pens--diamond pens, gold pens, pens fit for a president, whatever you can imagine! They were all displayed carefully in glass cases like jewelry. Indeed, when we first stepped in, I briefly thought that we had made a mistake and entered a jewelry shop. I glanced at the prices of the pens--some in the order of thousands of dollars. No thank you, I thought! We looked at the list on the wall for the floor guide, and found the stairs and headed up. Each level has a different supply or focus. For example, some contained only journals, others writing utensils, etc. I really wanted to spend more time looking at all the different pencils. When we reached the paints/general art supply level, I was in complete heaven. Everywhere I looked were my dear supplies--paints, watercolors, colored pencils, sketchbooks. It had been so long since I had seen such things. And to my joy, watercolor paper. True watercolor paper. I could have spent many hours here. While we were looking around, I received a message from my fellow Fulbrighter, Veronica. Veronica is based in Tsukuba, which is about a 2 hour train ride from Tokyo. Knowing I would be in Tokyo, she had asked to meet up! I was so happy! When we had left the hostel earlier I had sent her the address of the art store and told her approximately when we would be there. So she had taken the train in to Tokyo. When I received a message, she said that she had arrived and was on the same floor as us. But the floor we were on was quite small, and I looked through the shelves and saw no one. We both said that we were certain of the floor we were on. Then, after calling, we realized that actually there are two Ito-ya stores. Luckily they are right across the street from each other. One is the smaller, fancier, "designer" store (where Kait and I were) and the other is the main store, which is far larger. Veronica was on the same floor, but across the street. She came to find us, and after three months since we had parted ways after the Fulbright orientation, we were reunited! I was so glad to see her! After all, according to our Fulbright Fellowship, I am Gimli and she is Legolas. So we ought to have at least a few journeys together! It turns out that Veronica is very artsy herself, and there are few things better than to freak out about amazing art supplies together with another artist. I sincerely hope that Kait was amused by our entrancement. I stocked up, at long last, on watercolor paper and a few more supplies. I wanted to buy so many more, but didn't want to make everyone wait so I could keep looking (I could have, left on my own, looked around for hours.) And we wanted to go see the main Ito-ya store, as well. So we crossed the street and went in. The main store lived up to the reputation that I had heard of it--mainly, that it is huge, and that it is busy. There were so many wonderful items on each of the many floors. I was glad also when Veronica was able to pick out a lovely leather journal for her father. When we reached the long-awaited paper floor, I was enthralled. They were so beautiful. Unfortunately, I couldn't buy any for fear they would be ruined in the rain and the trip back to Sapporo. But I vowed to return. When we reached the top floor, we were greeted unexpectedly by the sun! The rain had stopped and the clouds had cleared to blue sky over the magnificent streets of Ginza.
      We headed out into the busy crowds, along the picturesque streets and ritzy shops. Because it happened to be a Saturday, all traffic is closed off and the streets are opened completely to pedestrians. This was one instance where my previous images of "Tokyo" synced with reality. It was quite surreal. We were all relieved and thankful for the sunshine after nearly drowning in the morning. We decided to find a place to get a snack. We all adamantly agreed on this. While walking, the crowds in the middle of the street began to part. A string of five or so male models in smart clothes holding banners were strutting down the street, and folks began to take pictures. Veronica noticed a large, many floored and wellknown cafe that overlooked the infamous clocktower of Ginza. We went in and order some delicious snacks. I ordered "mumburando", which I have heard so much of but never tasted. It looks, to be honest, like a small pile of noodles. Actually, it is finely overlaid chestnut/peanut cream over a dessert. In other words, it is delicious. I also ordered a blueberry bagel. Kait and Veronica order similarly delicious meals. As are all cafes, restaurants, and buildings in general throughout Japan, it was busy. We feared we would find no place to sit. We managed somehow to find a small table and squished together. I have to say, this constant lack of places to sit in places where you are required to sit is a persistent annoyance in Japan. I do not understand why cafes in Japan do not anticipate that they will need tables and places to accommodate their guests--and in appropriate abundance. There is never a place to sit, ever. It is always a stressful battle, and frankly one that could be easily fixed with proper forethought on the part of eating establishments. Or any forethought at all. But in any case, I really enjoyed sitting together with my friends, and having a chance to catch up with both Kait and Veronica. Kait is a very friendly person, and I was glad that her and Veronica made such easy conversation together despite having just met. The very idea that we were all eating desserts together overlooking the fancy streets of Ginza, so frequently graced by the presence of celebrities and famous people, was incredible. Hoping to use a little bit more of the brilliant sunlight before it set (since it still sets about 4PM), Veronica offered to try to find a huge toy store that she had heard about. Kait liked the idea, and I did too. So we were off. The strange thing about walking through Ginza to me is that although I marveled at its beauty and the crisp, pristine expensive stores towering around me, I know nothing of fancy brands. In fact, if anything, I harbor a deep dislike for them. Kait would say, "look! A Zara!" or "Look! Tiffany's", etc. etc. but most of the time I had no real idea of what they were besides a trap to fool people into spending money wastefully and indulgently (and for what? For images sake?). It was in Ginza that some of my feelings towards wealth and excess began to surface. The idea of people coming to Ginza and buying these wealthy things, of celebrities, and well-off...I continued to think, I am happy sleeping in my wooden box, walking around in my hiking boots. If I were wealthy, I would consider it immoral to live in such excess. I would live as I do now, and give the rest to help others. That is what is so overlooked--that if you want wealth, it comes with responsibility, because that money came on the backs of others no matter what others say. I was reminded of a tradition I had learned about many southeastern native nations, like the Cherokee, Muscogee, Chickasaw, and Choctaw. Although there are variations by tribe, a general ideal is that a leader who acquires wealth should live humbly, because all wealth is a privilege to distribute amongst others. This is what I try to explain when political troubles, such as the recent tax-increase fiasco, occur. If you want wealth, then accept the responsibility. If you don't want the responsibility, there is a perfectly wonderful life for you living humbly anyways. It sickens and perplexes me to glorify wealth and fame. So although I found Ginza to be absolutely stunning, I wish that it was not solely the abode of wealthy people.
   In the toy store, there were children running around and so many interesting things. Kait was able to find a souvenir. As evening fell, Veronica would soon need to catch her train back to Tsukuba. But she offered kindly to come with us back towards Asakusa and show us Kaminari-mon. This is a large gate with a humungous red lantern, and statues to either side. It leads into a long stretch of souvenir tents and food vendors all the way up to the entrance to Sensou-ji. It is admittedly one of the most "touristy" locations in Tokyo, and many of the souvenir shops boarder on being cliche. But sometimes, gifts like these, which seem to be infused with as much "Japan" as possible, are fun to give. In Sapporo, such things are fairly rare. Indeed, I've actually struggled to find good souvenirs to send others that are clearly from Japan and not things you might find anywhere. I enjoyed glancing through the stands, although I would have liked to look longer. Kait was in search of a sake cup for a friend, and Veronica was in search of a replica sword for her boyfriend! I couldn't believe it when she bought one! It was not ridiculously expensive, but still a large gift. It was fun to watch her purchase it and carry with her. For dinner, although Veronica need to head back to Tsukuba, but another Fulbrighter (Libby) was in Tokyo and had offered to meet us. Originally, she had asked to meet us at a different station, but Veronica suggested that we all meet at Kaminari-mon since it is only about a twenty minute walk from our hostel and I am always concerned about getting lost at night. We said farewell to Veronica and thanked her for a fun day together. Then, after a little bit of searching, Libby and I were able to locate each other. Kait, Libby, and I wandered around the Kaminari-mon for a while, trying to decide on what would be good to eat. Unfortunately, Libby had eaten a late lunch and was not especially hungry yet. The whole time I was in Tokyo, I kept wanting to go to interesting restaurants to eat, but folks kept not being hungry! We had a lot of trouble deciding, and second guessed ourselves. Then I suggested, as per Veronica's recommendation, that maybe we try taking a look in Sky Tree. None of us had been inside this infamously tall tower, and so it would be a good way to see someplace new and probably find something yummy. As we were walking, Libby suggested Okonomiyaki! This is a wonderful invention, often described as the Japanese take on pizza. However, that should not suggest that it resembles pizza in any way other than the addition of cheese, and its circular shape. It translates roughly to "as you like it." I have heard of this delicious food for many years, but never tried it. Libby was shocked. Kait was excited too, because she had heard of it. In her short stay in Japan, she wanted to try as many Japanese staples as possible. So we all agreed it was an excellent plan. The walk from Kaminari-mon to Sky Tree took longer than expected (who knew! Tall things are actually farther away than they appear!). But once we arrived, we were able to locate an Okonomiyaki restaurant on the food floor. So up we went, and waited in line. Inside the restaurant, the table was made of a large square metal hot plate. Everything smelled delicious. The okonomiyaki, when it arrives, is served directly onto the metal hot plate. Then you cut it with a spatula and put pieces onto your plate. It was absolutely delicious. Libby was glad to celebrate such a momentous occasion with me. Because I am able to eat a heck of a lot, I had no trouble finishing mine. The others started to get full part way, but managed to finish their's as well. I truly enjoyed talking with Libby and learning about her time in Tsukuba. Meeting up with Libby and Veronica that day made me realize how much I would like to see the other Fulbrighters more. Libby needed to catch the last train to Tsukuba, and so our parting was rather rushed. She had to leap into a packed elevator after I said "leave us behind! Save yourself!", since it was so busy and would have cost her the last train if we had all waited for another elevator.  Kait and I headed back to our hostel, and tried out our first night in our snug wooden boxes.
Wednesday (12/23)-- I awoke in my wooden box quite pleasantly. Not sure if my friend was awake just yet, I let myself leisurely get dressed. We tried our best each day to set out fairly early. If I remember correctly, we woke up and were headed out by about 9AM. This time, both because Kait herself admitted that she becomes a little bit snippy when she is hungry and because I love breakfast, we made a plan to search for breakfast along the way. December 23rd is the emperor's birthday, and a national holiday. It is one of only two days a year when the inner grounds of the imperial palace are open. So our goal was to get inside! Kait and I were both excited that it happened to work out that she would be visiting Tokyo at this time. We were able to get on the correct subway, and exited fairly close to the Imperial Palace. We did have a bit of a walk between the station and the palace, through less residential and much more "Tokyo"-esque downtown. The feeling of the area was very similar to Michigan Ave in Chicago, we agreed. Ahead, I could see what appeared to be the large moat surrounding the palace and wide open streets. Knowing now where we were, we decided it would be a good place to search for breakfast before entering the grounds. We turned back and searched. We had some trouble at first locating a place, but then I started looking closely at signs on buildings. Often, there are many cafes and restaurants tucked away on floors of large buildings. We found a sign with the name of a cafe chain I recognized, and a Starbucks. We entered the building and went down to the basement level. Sure enough, there were a number of restaurants. I suggested that we avoid the Starbucks and chose the Japanese chain because of how very overpriced Starbucks is in Japan. This turned out to be a good choice, because the St. Marc's cafe chain we went to served much cheaper, but equally delicious croissants, hot drinks, and breakfast foods. I ordered a hot chocolate, a croissant, and an egg-topped bread. When we were finished with our excellent breakfast, we were on our way to the Imperial Palace. I had tried to do a bit of research before hand to know where we should enter. But I was still uncertain. We walked along the moat a short distance, pleased to see runners all around us zooming past. Apparently, it is approximately 1.5-2 miles to go around the outside of the palace, which makes it one of the best places to run and workout. There are always many runners making loops. I was so jealous, because I had wanted to go for a run here too. I had even packed my running shoes. Furthermore, compared to the many layers of running tights, under-armor, coats, socks, mittens, etc. that I must wear just to trot over frozen snowpack at great risk in Sapporo, many runners were wearing shorts and long sleeve shirts. They were speeding along on clear, safe ground, in the perfect mild weather. I thought to myself, these runners in Tokyo have no excuse not to be in amazing shape! They can run whenever they wish, even in the winter, without trouble! Indeed, I must admit that I was rather annoyed whenever I heard anyone complain about the weather in Tokyo. They ought to spend a week in Sapporo (or Minnesota), and then they would be kissing the beautiful ice-free streets and soaking in every ray of warm sunshine. I do appear to be quite frustrated with the cold weather in Sapporo, but the truth is I do enjoy many aspects of winter as well. However, I cannot hide that when it comes to being able to run, warmer weather is far more convenient. I often greatly enjoy my winter runs, watching the puffs of steam as I go and the crisp crunch under my feet as I speed along, the cool taste of the air, but a little less peril would be okay too. As we neared what I was guessing was a main gate, more and more visitors amassed. There seemed to be a steady stream headed in one direction, so we followed along. Lines were forming in front of security checks. This was a surprise! We thought through what we might have on us that could be a security issue, hoping not to cause any trouble as foreigners. It turns out that if you have flags or other national symbols from other countries you cannot bring them in. Luckily, we were not wearing any such things. They checked our bags, and patted us down, but we made it through. I have a tiny keychain with an Ainu design on  it, and I was nervous when the security guard checking my bag lifted this up and scrutinized it, but she said nothing about it and let me through. There was a whole wave of people now, crowding us on all sides and scooting us along. So no need to worry about where to go! The current was sure to bring us there. En route, a line of adorable Japanese elementary school children was going through the crowds handing out paper Japanese flags. They even gave one to me! At first I wasn't sure if the child was just waving the flag, or giving it to me, but when I saw others receive them I happily accepted it too. Kait told me afterwards that she had noticed a number of Japanese people watch me to see if I took it. I'm sure glad I did! As a Fulbrighter representing the U.S., I wanted to show my enthusiasm and openness to Japan. I wanted to participate in the celebration too. There were announcements over megaphone being made, stating that the Emperor's next appearance would be around 11AM. He apparently made appearances every 45 minutes or so throughout the day. Some birthday, Kait pointed out! We found a spot amidst the big crowd in front of the balcony, and enjoyed talking to each other while we waited about 30 minutes for the emperor's appearance. We were packed tighter and tighter as time passed. Lucky for Kait, she is quite tall, so seeing wasn't a problem. I was amused by the security guards here and there throughout the crowd. The one in front of me, standing with arms crossed, was literally dozing in and out of sleep. There was an announcement that the royal family was entering the balcony. The crowd erupted with cheers and "bonzai!", and waving flags. I waved my flag too! A few in the crowd thew up there arms continuously, shouting "bonzai!" each time. The emperor came to the microphone and everyone quietly listened to his speech. I was pleasantly surprised to actually be able to understand most of it! When he finished, everyone cheered again, and the royal family waved some more. I waved back, telling myself how amazing it was to be waving at an emperor. The royal family exited the balcony, and the crowds began to move out.
     After seeing the emperor and royal family, we strolled through the rest of the palace grounds, gardens, and beautiful historical buildings. There was so much human history in each footstep, wall, bridge, moat, and rock. We climbed up to a lookout point, from which there was an excellent view of the city. What an interesting contrast it was to see the traditional buildings of the palace, and the skyscrapers of Tokyo. We were even lucky to see some blooming cherry trees. Just a few, with tiny, subtle blossoms. But I was happy to see flowers. Kait, it turns out, is obsessed with flowers. She loves taking pictures of them. So I was glad that we could find some even in winter. After covering most of the grounds, our next goal was to head in the direction of Harajuku and Meiji-jingu. I mapped out the course, and opted to walk there. I really prefer walking over the subway. First of all, there is less risk of ending up in a whole other city by accident. Second of all, you are able to see so much more. In total, it was probably only a couple miles. The walk was breathtaking. The first part took us around the outside of the palace along the moat. We passed by the Tokyo Art Museum on our right, and beautiful landscapes, walls, trees, and plants on our left. Then we passed through a quiet business and apartment area. In this quiet area, we found a tiny bakery. It was perfect timing for lunch. We are both baked goods enthusiasts. Stepping inside, there were large, Christmas-themed decorated breads, in shapes of santa claus, snowmen, and other cute designs. The older lady at the counter explained that this had been reserved in advance for Christmas eve meals. The shelves had so many different breads, many inspired by Europe, but all with a distinctly Japanese twist. For example, there were european style breads with anko (bean paste) inside, or red beans sprinkled on top. This is common at the numerous bakeries throughout Japan. Although Americans are accused of having a sweet tooth, I would argue that Japanese people in general have a sweeter one. I helped Kait as best as I could to translate the names of the different pastries and goods and to help give suggestions. I told her that one thing she must definitely not miss out on in Japan is "melon-pan." We both made sure to buy one. I also got a croissant, a chocolate muffin and a small green tea cake (for tomorrow's breakfast). While we were walking, I deeply enjoyed watching the neighborhoods of the city around us change and shift ever so slightly. We took a short break so that we could eat our melon-pan. Kait agreed, it was delicious. I took a bite, and informed her that we had chosen a good bakery because they were especially tasty. We passed on to another scenic park-like stretch of the walk. I began to realize that the area was starting to look oddly familiar. That leg of our walk had actually brought us through the very same part of Tokyo where I had gone for runs during the Fulbright orientation! It is a spare imperial residence of some sort, as I mentioned all those months past. It was such a surreal feeling to be back in that very same spot again, retracing my steps. I could distinctly visualize my memories of running there. The nervousness, mixed with comfort, of the runs in what had been such an utterly new place. Returning now, I felt a slightly different person. More brave, more comfortable, but still with much ahead of me to learn. We paused in front of the immaculate National Diet building, which I remember so clearly passing on my runs as a landmark. Our walk continued through beautiful park streets, and then shifted into the cityscape of Shibuya. While walking along these fancy streets, a number of extremely expensive cars passed us in the streets, as well as a motorcycle group all dressed in Santa Claus costumes! Our main goal was Meiji-jingu, but along the way I wanted us to stop for a meal at a wonderful sounding restaurant I had researched. It was apparently friendly to vegetarians, and in Harajuku just outside of Meiji-jingu, so a perfect location. We tried to follow the directions on my phone, entering the tight, compact streets of Harajuku. There were many unique houses packed along these narrow roads, and cars--though they attempted to drive through whenever possible--could just barely fit through. At first there were not many people, but as we neared the heart of Harajuku, crowds accumulated. We emerged from these smaller streets into a much busier main street, lined with large stores. According to my phone, it was always just a little bit farther to the restaurant. I had dragged Kait all the way across Tokyo on our walk, and spent so much time searching for the restaurant, she was very kind not to make us give up on finding it. Just when I thought I might completely disappoint her by not being able to find it, there it was ahead of us, tucked away! The Eco-cafe 632. I was overjoyed. And soon, I would be even happier. When I stepped up to the door, I was shocked to spy the word "manoomin" ("wild rice" in Anishinaabemowin) from the corner of my eye. I looked down at the display table outside. There, in the middle of Harajuku, was Dennis Banks Minnesota wild rice and maple syrup. I was floored. I couldn't believe it! It was such an unexpected, wonderful surprise. I was even more excited to go inside. They even had Mr. Dennis Banks' CD for sale! The feel of the restaurant was bright and open, with large windows letting in the sun. We were led to a table, and given menus. At first, I thought everything might contain meat, which was a bit disappointing. But while talking with the waiter, he actually went to check if they could change the Japanese curry dish to be vegetarian. Sure enough, they did! Kait ordered the normal green curry and I ordered the special vegetarian one. When the meals arrived, they looked scrumptious. We started to eat, but I soon realized that there was meat in mine. I was perplexed. Then I realized that they had served the vegetarian meal to Kait and the regular one to me. I think that in ordering, they had thought I was ordering for her. We had already taken a few bites, and Kait had already said how delicious hers was. Although I felt bad about it, since they had been switched around, we decided to switch them to the right way. I felt awful to be taking away the meal Kait had just bitten into and enjoyed, but there is no way I could have eaten the meat version. And Kait does it meat, plus that is how we had intended to order originally. The rice was even garnished with a a taste of wild rice! Feeling so happy to have found it, I decided to buy a small bag of wild rice even though it was about twice what it would have cost in Minnesota. When we left, my curiosity pushed me to ask the cashier if there was truly a connection with Dennis Banks. The one time that I met Mr. Banks, I told him in conversation that I would be headed to Japan--to which he responded 「日本語が話せますか。」("Do you speak Japanese?") I almost fainted! I should have realized, Mr. Banks was once married to a Japanese woman and also spent time with the navy based in Japan. At that time, Mr. Banks mentioned to me that he returns to Japan yearly. He said that while he was based here he witnessed a protest of Japanese people against a proposed American base construction which would have taken their homes and farmland. This incident had given him inspiration as well. In that conversation, I vaguely remember Mr. Banks mentioning that he even had a restaurant. I had hoped one day to find that restaurant, but had no idea I would find it that day completely by chance. I am not entirely certain what the cashier's response was because he spoke quite quickly, but he did confirm that there was a connection with Mr. Banks, and perhaps (if I understood), Mr. Banks had given the vegetables and idea of a healthy, organic menu. Based on the talk Dennis Banks gave at St. Olaf, concerning his shift to vegetables and healthy foods after serious trouble from diabetes, I believe this. As I paid for the wild rice, the cashier reached to grab what I thought would be a plastic bag. Japan puts everything in as many plastic bags as possible, and I am often arguing with cashiers not to be given one. I started to say "no, it's okay, I have a backpack!" when the cashier brought out a cloth bag with a printed image of Dennis Banks and the restaurant website. I was floored! I couldn't believe it! I was so happy and touched, Kait can confirm that I was smiley for a long time afterwards. I carried it with me as though it were treasure.
   After eating our very late lunch, it was just about 4PM. Our next goal, and primary motivation for the walk from the Imperial Palace through Harajuku was to reach Meiji-jingu. It was only a very short walk from the restaurant. When we crossed the busy street over a tall bridge to reach the shrine entrance, to our dismay the large gate was shut. People were trickling out through a small door. Unfortunately, I had not realized that the shrine closes at 4PM (or sunset, whichever is later at the time). I was sad to translate the sign on the gate. Our lunch and walk, which I had enjoyed so much, had cost a visit to the shrine. I was not too disappointed personally, but I did want Kait to see it. In retrospect, I should not have feared for Kait that day because we had already done and seen many incredible things. We had even seen the emperor! Kait asked what we should do instead, and I did not know. I am far from an expert on Tokyo, and so I did not have a quick alternative especially for so late in the day. I wanted to wait a few minutes to look up ideas, but Kait would have none of it. She said she did not want to waste time standing around. From my point of view, it was not standing around--it was necessary for me if I was going to figure something out, unless she had any suggestions. Being pushed and with the decision still left up to me, yet not having any idea whatsoever of where to go, I suggested blindly that we go see Shibuya crossing. This is the classic scene from movies featuring Tokyo--one of the busiest intersections in the city. Barely given time to route the walk, I more or less guessed a direction. Thank heavens that as we were crossing a bridge, I spied the infamous Elvis-impersonating dancers of Yoyogi park out practicing in a circle. I was curious about them myself, so I suggested that first we go take a look and then go through Yoyogi park since it is so well-known. Kait and I both enjoyed watching the dancers, and I was very happy for a chance to stroll through the beautiful park. I suppose you might compare it to Central Park in New York, although I have never been there. There are always people out practicing dancing, and especially playing instruments. Because living spaces are typically so small, and such practicing could be disruptive or require more space, many people come to the park instead. I would have liked to spend a bit more time in the park, but we decided to continue on to Shibuya crossing. Then we could simply take the train back to Asakusa afterwards from the large station. I probably did not take the most direct route to get there, but clutching my phone's map I did the best I could under pressure. It seemed we were entering the correct areas as crowds once again grew, and buildings became taller, brighter, and all-encompassing. Then quite suddenly we were there, in the same massive swarm of chaos that I remember when I first saw it. As you may be able to guess from my description, I am not fond of Shibuya crossing. It is impressive, to be sure, and a sight worth seeing, but certainly not a place I have any desire to return to. I was glad at least by how excited and impressed Kait was by the sheer number of people, and the fact that you are able to cross from any direction including diagonal. When the walk sign flashes, it really does become a free for all, and you had best know how to swim through it. By this point, after being pushed to navigate and make such quick decisions, and now in such a chaotic, packed area I was becoming overwhelmed. All I really needed was a moment to be still and collect myself. In Shibuya crossing, there is little chance of that. Kait was hoping to get a view of the crossing from up above. We tried entering a busy, tall building and going to the top. They were too savvy for us--all the windows on the higher levels were covered up to avoid tourists doing just that. However, I must say it is a real shame. We went down to the Starbucks level where there was a window to try to sneak a glimpse, but this was just as packed and we were stalked by waitresses trying to get rid of us. Finally, we headed out and descended into one of the largest subway stations in Japan to try to navigate back to Asakusa. Looking at the twisted, tangley web of trains, it took me some time to synthesize all the information. While staring at the board in front of the ticket machine and also trying to confirm with the directions on my phone (and to try to slow Kait down enough for me to think properly) a middle-aged Japanese couple spied my perpetually lost face and asked where we were trying to go. I was a little bit frustrated to be asked if I needed help, when all I actually needed was a moment to think, but I was so overwhelmed I graciously (if warily) accepted their help. I say warily because from my experience when a Japanese person tries to help you, they really try to help you. Indeed, they will go so far out of their way as to walk with you. The real issue, besides feeling like a burden and a fool, is mostly that if that person happens to be wrong or mistake where you want to go, there is no escaping or correcting them. After scurrying off to consult the map on their own, the man told us we should just take the Ginza line to Asakusa station, a more or less straight shot. After he pointed this out, I realized also how simple a ride that would be. Simpler, in fact, than the train we had been using before. Thanking them for their help, we bought our tickets, managed to find the train, and got back to Asakusa. I wanted to have one more look through Kaminari-mon since I hadn't really been given a chance before. So we strolled through here, then headed back to the hostel. I would have really liked to eat dinner someplace to utilize the opportunity for another Japanese meal to show Kait, but she said she preferred just to go back since she was tired and we had eaten a late lunch. We still had some treats from the bakery in our bag, and she said she would rather just eat that. I was a little disappointed, because I love Japanese food so much. But after such an overwhelming end to the day, I conceded and we headed back to our boxes. It was still very early in the evening when we got back, but I used the time to relax, read a bit, and try to plan for the next day. The croissant that I ate for a snack was absolutely delicious. The plan for tomorrow, if I could manage to get us there, was to witness what is known as a Diamond Fuji. This happens only during Christmas time--it is when the sun is aligned just right to set directly behind Mt. Fuji and can be seen from the neighboring Mt. Touzan. It would be pushing my navigation abilities to get us there, as it was outside of Tokyo itself, but I could think of no more classic sight in Japan than Mt. Fuji.

Thursday (12/13)-- Thursday morning was the my re-scheduled Kanji midterm exam. Although I had unexpectedly received an extra day to study, I still did not feel confident going into the exam. I have found that ever since graduating, and indeed for some time leading up to graduation, I have not been able to focus. It has been a struggle and a worry, but I have yet to break my pattern of procrastination that has crept into my behavior. Although I am fortunate to be able to pull things together in the end, it is frustrating and certainly not the sort of study behavior that I am proud of. I need to find a way to reinvigorate my passion for learning. It is not lost, but it is harder than ever to keep focused. I sometimes wonder if it is not the beginnings of an attention disorder finally overtaking me. For many years, I was able to overcome lack of focus and attention by working extra hard. These days it is more of a struggle to muster the will. Although I generally enjoy tests, because they provide an opportunity to learn exactly where your weak and strong spots lay, I found more weaknesses than strengths this time around. I am not good at memorizing many words at once--although if you give me a few shorts lists, I can learn them well--so the hundreds and hundreds of vocabulary words that have yet to sink into my long term memory were overwhelming. Nonetheless, it felt good to have out of the way. In the evening, I of course had track practice. I am not certain, looking back, what the workout was, though I have a feeling it was jumping across the gymnasium. This is probably the evening that I cooked my very own caramels, I should mention. I've always loved the taste of soft, homemade caramels and throughout the week I had been slowly accumulating the supplies. It was a careful process, especially because of my temperamental (or more bluntly, 'stupid') single burner. But they turned out to be very tasty if I do say so myself. By dripping some of the boiling mixture in cold water periodically, I managed to make them just the right consistency. Not too soft, not too hard.
Friday (12/14)-- December 14th was a day I had awaited with great anticipation. It was the release of THE HOBBIT! In the morning I had my grammar class, and Magali and I discussed our plans for the evening and when we could meet after class for our 7PM showtime. Both Magali and I have a 4:30-6PM class, so we agreed to meet at Sapporo Station as soon as we could afterwards and hopefully grab a bite to eat. The lecture that evening wound up being about forest resources and archeology! What a pleasant surprise! Although we met initially in our normal room, we walked together for the actual lecture at the archeology department a few minutes away. I have often considered going into archeology, and so this was a treat for me. Not only that, it was combining my love of trees directly with my love of history. Some of the Hokudai archeology professors/researchers shared the lecture and explained some of the longer (think thousand years ago) archeological significance of the land that makes up the Sapporo and particularly the campus. Because there are a couple of streams that criss-crossed the campus (now they have been altered, reduced, and tampered with as have virtually all rivers in Japan), there are a number of ancient building sites that have been unearthed mostly after starting construction on new campus facilities. The highlight of the lecture was, just as I thought it would be wrapped up, the lecturer directed us to a door in the back. The door led to a small room filled with artifacts, primarily pots, plates, and little items. It should be noted here that, similarly to the United States, archeology in Hokkaido cannot be easily separated from the legacy of "colonization." There was little mention of involvement of Ainu descendents in the archeology research, just as most United States museum for many years (and most still today) rarely involved members of the native nations whose artifacts they displayed. Some of these artifacts were stolen, or ought to have been returned, and many displayed without permission of native nations. (As a particularly poignant footnote, if you see moccasins in a museum that happen to have beadwork on the bottom, these were most certainly taken from a grave or a buried person.) I will have to do more digging on this matter on my own. At the moment, I let myself become caught up in the excitement of seeing such incredible history that the warning signs of cultural hurts--not mentioned once by the lecturers--flashed too dimly at the back of my mind. To emphasize, it was an honor to see these items. But I would rather they return to those they belong, or their descendents, to be given to archeologists if they wish. As class ended, I was becoming more and more excited for the Hobbit. Although I enjoy talking to my classmates afterwards, I needed to hurry on my way over the especially icey sidewalks that night. I made it to Sapporo Station by 6:20, worrying that I might have made Magali wait. As it happens, because of her class and the ice (somehow she is still biking!), it was not until around 6:40 that Magali arrived. We had wanted to eat Hokkaido-style ramen before the movie, but there was not time. We hurried downstairs to a bakery and enjoyed delicious caramel baked goods instead. We kept thinking that, because it was opening night there would be crowds upstairs for the opening of the Hobbit. But when we arrived upstairs at the Sapporo Cinema, there were no crowds to be found. Even at about 6:55PM when we entered the theater itself, the seats were scarcely populated. I was so surprised! It was an interesting feeling, to see such little enthusiasm or excitement, and yet to know how much energy there was probably in theaters throughout the U.S. Probably, few Japanese people were as excited to go see what for them would not only be a foreign film, but also in English. I am almost positive now that, when I bought my advance tickets to make sure we would have seats a week and a half prior, I was the first in Sapporo to do so--perhaps even the first in Hokkaido! The nearly empty theater could not dampen my anticipation. Magali, too, had been looking forward to the film and I was so grateful to go see it with her! I adore Tolkien's work, and in particular the Hobbit. It is a simple read in style, but in my opinion an example of a nearly perfect story. Because Tolkien was deeply interested in old English, and old Scandinavian fairytales and stories (a master linguist, I might add), you can see many of these influences in his works. If you have read Beowulf or the tales of Sigurd especially you can find parallels and some very profound messages. I have often found myself likening my own journey coming here to Japan, with Bilbo's adventure. Both he and I left the comfort of our homes for a completely unknown future, for an adventure. On the way, I have met all sorts of people and new companions. I have gotten myself into mishaps, found myself intensely missing my home, and at the same time ensnared by a sense of fascination for my new surroundings and each new experience. There have been hardships, balanced by absolutely incredible sights. When I fall into a troublesome patch, I try to remind myself of Mr. Bilbo Baggins: “Go back?" he thought. "No good at all! Go sideways? Impossible! Go forward? Only thing to do! On we go!” I am determined to do my best, and though the journey may be long and I may not return the same, there is something to be said for a little persistence and adventurousness, even in the face of challenge. I've been told I am quite Hobbit-like, in any case. I have an immense love of food (and a larger appetite than most know!), peace, quiet, simplicity and the familiar. I don't like things to be more complicated than they must be. At the same time, there is that Tookish strand in me that loves adventure (but only in certain doses!). I might mention that I also thought of myself much like Samwise Gamgee when I first arrived here, because of my inexperience, bumbling but persistent nature, and love of plants--Japan is certainly the farthest from home I've ever been! For all of these reasons, not to mention the inspiration that Tolkien's works have given to my own life and way of thinking, I have been closely watching the production of the Hobbit movie. To be frank, I must say that while I appreciate Peter Jackson's (the director's) passion for Tolkien's world, I do not like his excessive creative license one bit. In that regard, I do not trust him or approve of most of the alterations and flourishes he added to the film. I greatly prefer the book. Greatly is an understatement here. Nonetheless, there were some scenes and choices in the film that were enjoyable. I really did like most of Martin Freeman's performance as Bilbo, as well as Ian McKellen's slightly more grumpy and mischievous Gandalf this time around. Gandalf in the Lord of the Ring's films was far too kind with his words! At some point during the film, I gave up hoping to see the lovely story that I know, and accepted that I would watch the film for the film that it is. The highlight I will say were the lovely, breathtaking landscapes and backgrounds. Two of my favorite artists (John Howe and Alan Lee), long involved in the illustration of Tolkien's tales, painted some of the scenes almost directly into the film. That was a privilege to see. Anyways, I will not bore you anymore with my love of Tolkien, only to recommend the Hobbit book if you have not read it and want to come away from a story with a contented smile. I'd recommend the Lord of the Rings, as well, but they require a bit more tenacity. After the film, it was just after 10PM. Magali was very kind to humor me and go get ramen afterwards, since we had not eaten a real dinner. I rarely eat ramen here in Japan (it's good, but nothing incredible in my humble opinion), but it was quite tasty. We talked happily together as we ate, comparing colleges in the United States and in Switzerland. We collected Magali's bike once we were done, stopped at a conbini for her to get milk, and then parted ways. I felt content, and grateful for the fun evening. It was nearly midnight when I got back to my dorm, and I needed to get to bed in order to wake up for my morning track practice.
Saturday (12/15)--  Morning track practice was at the Sapporo community dome, which I have visited once or twice before. The workout was 2x2x800m, with 400m of jog in between the two 800s. Hanako-san met me patiently at Sapporo Station to ride with me to the dome. She gave me the option of doing the long sprinter workout, which was 6x300m. I was sorely tempted to accept her suggestion, but something stubborn arose in me and I decidedly nervously to agree to the middle distance workout. The whole time as I warmed up I second-guessed myself. I was not sure if I would have enough endurance to keep up, and I am so comfortable with 300m. I nearly piped up and asked at the last minute if I could switch, but the timekeepers said it was time to start and I was too bashful to say anything. So nervously I lined up with the small group of male middle distance runners and Hanako-san, the only other girl. I let her take the lead, because my main goal was just to get a feel for things and hang on. The first set went well, and I was surprised! By the second set, Hanako-san had asked if I could take the lead since I somehow had energy to spare. I was happy, excited, and nervous to finally, finally, finally take the lead. I have felt bad to always be chasing after Hanako-san, making her set the pace and just trying to keep up. I wanted to help out too, and to push her as well. So I took my task seriously. I was so nervous and excited I took off fast (not having been in the lead for so long). I didn't want to be too slow. I finished the 800m faster than the first set! And I was still going strong! In fact, I pushed us faster than our first set for all of the remaining 800s. And I stayed in the lead! I was so happy to finally feel the start of strength returning--and to be able to contribute to the workout! It felt incredible. I even had a little bit of energy left afterwards, although on the last 800 I could feel the tiredness creeping into my legs. It was one of the first practices where I've felt a big improvement. Boy has it been a long time coming. And no where near what I was perhaps once capable of. But here's hoping. After practice I even managed to navigate back on the subway all on my own! I decided to search for the second vegetarian, organic restaurant on my list for lunch. It is quite a walk from the station, and really hidden away. To my despair, I finally located the tiny place (in a basement!) only to learn that they had stopped serving lunch 15 minutes prior. I was so sad and upset by the news. It had taken nearly an hour to locate. Downtrodden, I made my way back towards the station, saying that I would return if I had time for the dinner set. It was really chilly out that day, and the sidewalks especially uneven because of the snowpack. But around 5:30PM, I made the long hike back for dinner. It was worth it, because the feel of the restaurant and the food were both delicious.
Sunday (12/16)--In the morning, the practice was weightlifting. For lunch, I decided to go to the Indian restaurant. My main goal was to give the owner a Christmas/New Year's gift. I had been trying to choose a day to go, and today seemed as good as ever. I needed to make sure I went before my trip to Tokyo, after all. The food was delicious as usual, and the owner really lit up to receive the gift. He even asked about Becca, and sent her his regards. I felt cheerful afterwards. I love giving gifts. In the evening, I attended the Hokudai World Music Festival, created by Hokudai international students. I met Diao-san at Sapporo Station and served as a navigator to locate the far-away concert hall. I put the address from our tickets into my phone, and did my best to lead the way through the dark, snowy, and icy streets. I had never been there before, and had little idea of where exactly I was headed. But I've just about mastered the street signs here, and so I was able to steer us in the correct direction through the combination of my phone and knowing the street address. We met at the station at about 6:20PM and arrived at the concert hall just before 7PM for the start of the show. The hall was filled with a decent sized audience. All the performers were international students. I particularly enjoyed hearing the music--the festival also included many dances, but I like to hear the songs from all over the world, like Indonesia, Korea, China, Russia, etc. Among the best performances was Joshua's group, called Sukiyaki Africa. It consisted of Joshua (Nigerian) on drums, a handful of Japanese students, and another international student from Africa, I believe Ghana though I am not certain. The collaborated with the Japanese students, and performed their unique rendition of "Ue wo Muite", a famous Japanese song known in the United States as "Sukiyaki." The singer had a rich, incredible voice and surprised everyone with his excellent Japanese ability with the lyrics. The song itself because a mixture of African rhythms (from the hand drums), Japanese saxophone and trumpet players, and Japanese tunes. I remember thinking to myself what a beautiful collaboration it was, and what a beautiful example of the incredible power of creativity and cultural collaboration. The song is one of my favorites, and to hear it performed in such an amazing way, with such palpable amicability, it brought a big smile to my face.
Monday (12/17)-- On Monday, in the morning I prepared cinnamon cookies to share with the teammate who had invited me over for Nabe in the evening. Then I attended Mao-san's practice PhD defense lecture around 2:30PM. There were only a few of us present. The contents are the same as I have heard at her previous practice lectures, though somewhat modified based on comments from professors. I enjoy and am happy to listen to the lecture. However, afterwards the couple professors attending continued to give commentary for hours. I watched the minutes waste away. There were many long pauses, and the whole commentary afterwards was drawn out to such a point that I really became antsy and disheartened that I would never escape. It was around 5PM  when I finally did get away. There had been no reason for me to stay during the commentary, as I have little to contribute besides English grammar help, so alas for two hours I literally sat silently twiddling my thumbs. I had agreed to meet Rinko-san at the gymnaisum at 6PM, so before that I wandered to Yodobashi Camera to buy some capsule toys which my siblings seem to love (for some reason) and then to the library to try to study for a short time. Unexpectedly as I walked towards the library I ran into one of the timekeepers/helpers for the track team. She asked if I was headed to practice at the Sapporo dome. I looked at her with confusion. No, of course not. As it turns out, middle distance had a monday evening practice (usually monday is a rest day). But I normally have a lecture at this time, which I told her, so normally I would not have been able to go anyways. Also, no one had told me ahead of time. This made me really wish I was given the actual workout schedule, so I wouldn't have to rely on others for information.  I headed into the library, then walked to meet Rinko-san. She is very kind, and very energetic. From what I've seen in practice, she is also very quick. I was really so flattered to have been invited over. She had rented Robin Hood to watch together while we ate. We were joined by Toi-san, who is more quiet and always seems surprised by what I have to say but is always very patient with me. First we walked over the snow-pack to the grocery store near here apartment. We picked out many vegetables, and they were both so considerate not to mind excluding meat. I encountered a new ingredient, as well, called "nira." It looks very literally like grass. I wasn't sure what it tasted like, but I was just happy it was not a slab of meat and I was intrigued by its grass clipping appearance. It turns out "nira" is, as far as I can distinguish, the leaves of garlic/chives. It tasted pretty good, in any case! When we got to Rinko's apartment, she admitted that she was embarrassed because even though she had tried to clean, she felt it was messy. I didn't think so at all! I tried to assure her that it was no trouble! Her apartment is up a set of narrow stairs, and consists of rooms connected by an even narrower hallway. But the rooms themselves are a decent size. About the size of my whole dorm room! I am admittedly jealous! I asked her if it was expensive, and she said no, so maybe I really should investigate an apartment. My tiny nest is alright, but it sure would be nice to have a bit more space. Especially a kitchen. With a stove that is not so temperamental. I really had a fun time. I adore the Disney Robin Hood film (although interestingly, it is considered by many to be the cheapest and among the more poorly done, recycling numerous images from previous films.) I enjoy it because it is so light-hearted, and there is actually nothing insulting or demeaning in it, as far as I can tell! That's preeeeetttty darn good for a Disney film. We watched it in English with Japanese subtitles. It was very interesting to compare the translations. I tried to explain (and my teammates also noticed a few times) that the Japanese subtitles left quite a bit out, or simplified the dialogue. We even discussed a bit of the history of King Richard, Prince John, and Robin Hood. I forget sometimes that a story that is so common to me has little connection to Japanese history, and so is fairly new to my teammates. The same thing happens to me, when Japanese acquaintances have to explain commonplace stories to me (although I am proud to say that I have impressed a few with my random knowledge of tales and trivia). It started snowing afterwards, and we all walked together part way back to the campus before parting ways. On the way, we listed other Disney movies, I tried to think of suggestions, and we recited Do-Re-Mi from Marry Poppins (with me trying to explain the meaning and fortunately remembering the lines).
Tuesday (12/18)-- On Tuesday, Mao-san gave her real pre-defense lecture. It was snowing hard outside. I gave her, Nana-san, and Koike-sensei some caramels afterwards as some motivation and congratulation.
Wednesday (12/19)-- My only notes for Wednesday are my morning grammar class, followed by a stop at the campus bakery where it was the first day special Christmas pastries were being sold. They would only be made for a few days, so I wanted to try them out. I bought a couple, in addition to the chestnut cream pan ('kuri pan') that I love so much. And then would you believe it, I fell asleep for far too long of a nap! In the evening, I attended my Field Bioscience lecture. To my great surprise and pleasure, Diao-san had brought an early birthday present for me! I couldn't believe it! She is so kind! She handed me a flowery bag, and inside it was filled with donuts! She knows me well, and they were delicious. I wore a grin the whole class because of her kindness.
Thursday (12/20)-- My 23rd Birthday. I am one year closer to embodying the old-person that I am accused of being. In the morning I had my Kanji class. This time it was Magali who surprised me! She had brought me a present! She had baked lemon bars (she called them 'biscuits' but to a Minnesotan, they were surely bars) and wrapped them beautifully in a box with a ribbon, and some chocolates from Switzerland. I was so shocked, because I had not told her and had not really expected anyone to remember! Goodness, I am thankful for kind and thoughtful people. Afterwards, since I had made a promise to myself (and to Becca!) that I would make my birthday a desserts-only day, I bought a number of pastries from the campus bakery to accompany my bars and chocolates from Magali. I decided to spend the day relaxing and enjoying the sunny weather as much as I could. I accomplished some work on my applications, and went for a glorious sunny run. That was my true present to myself---the cheerful run over the ice. The whole day, I had also wanted to make my way over to the Sugiyama apartment to visit Kotaro. He had sent me a message asking if I had time to come over, and so I made it a goal. But time kept slipping away. I had practice at 4:30PM (my last practice of the year before my trip to Tokyo!) and then I needed to meet my lab at 6:00 PM to attend the 'bonnenkai' ('saying goodbye to the old year party'). I kept thinking how much I wanted to make my way over to the Sugiyama house! But there was just no way. Practice was only the middle distance group, and only a handful at that. But Hanako-san had brought me some cookies that she had made for me, too! I had already run earlier, so I did a little warm up, a little lifting and abs, and then checked with Hanako-san to see if it was okay if I leave to make it on time to my lab. I wished her a happy new year! Since by the time I would return from Tokyo it would be the start of the winter vacation, it would be the last practice for awhile. I trotted my way over to the lab, half in workout clothes, half in normal clothes. I was also stressed because I had wanted to get to the lab early to attempt to use the printer and print my much-needed boarding pass for my flight in the morning. I barely made it there before 6PM, and one of my labmates helped me to try to print out my tickets. The printer (as is my usual luck) broke in the process, but somehow she pieced it back together and at the last moment we were able to print them before hurrying off with the second wave of labmates. We were headed to an Izakaya (japanese bar/restaurant). I have no love of such places. They are dim, smokey, and too rowdy for my taste. They combine three things I dislike: smoking, drinking, and meat. Fortunately, Mao-san, Nana-san, and Diao-san were all there. None of them drink, and so I enjoyed sitting with them. Mao-san was also especially protective of finding vegetables for me. One of her previous classmates at Hokudai was muslim, and so she had experienced how difficult it can be in Japan to follow specific dietary concerns. She was very sympathetic. As the evening wore on, I began thinking more and more how I would like to head on my way, and maybe make it to Sugiyama house. It is a darn good thing I stayed (there was no leaving early, anyways) because to my immense surprise Sakuma-san appeared holding a cake with birthday candles! It was my birthday, and also one of the other researchers. So both our names were written on the cake, and it was in the shape of a bear's face. I was so flattered, happy, and embarrassed. My lab has been such a welcoming place, and I could not ask for a kinder group of people (nor a kinder advisor). By the time things wrapped up, it was about 9PM. I knew that it would get to be far too late if I went to Sugiyama house at that point, because I would need to wake up at 5AM in the morning to catch a train to the airport. So I regretfully told Kotaro I could not make it there that evening, and if we could please celebrate when I returned. I also wanted to celebrate the fact that he had finished his graduation thesis. (A true accomplishment, considering that many Japanese students (or so I have heard) have a tendency to... well, not apply themselves fully to their graduation requirements. There is little fear of not graduating, of course, because university administrations are on the lax side of things.) However, my birthday wound up being cheerful and pleasant. I was nervous about spending a birthday away from my family and friends in the United States, but I need not have worried. I spent the last few hours preparing my small athletic bag for my trip to Tokyo. I tried to pack light. I set my bag next to my bed, laid out my clothes, took a breath, and set my alarm. The prospect of the trip ahead of me was both daunting and exciting, and I closed my eyes with these mixed feelings. It would be my first forage outside of Sapporo since I first arrived.

Monday (12/3)-- On Monday, I attempted for the first time to purchase tickets in Japan and to arrange domestic travel plans. My friend and teammate from St. Olaf had come up with a plan, in the months before I departed for the U.S., to come visit me in Tokyo for Christmas. We confirmed this fantastical plan a little after my arrival in Sapporo. This meant, however, that I would need to actually figure out how to travel within U.S. I am so inept at such things, I did not know where to start. What better task to start with than finding a plane ticket. Not really knowing what to do, I figured I would go to a travel center or air line center and buy my ticket there. The trickiest part is actually that I do not have a Japanese credit card (and I've heard they are difficult to obtain for non-Japanese), so all my purchases would need to be made in cash. This is no trouble at a travel center. But I was dismayed when, after walking into the ANA/JAL center next to campus, the worker told me the cheapest flight would be 30,000yen (just over $300). Having done a bit of asking and searching around online, I knew this price was much more expensive than it could be. This, it turns out, is because travel centers cannot book through discount airlines. These can only be done online. With credit cards. I didn't have 30,000yen on me, so I said that I would have to think about it and go to an ATM. After withdrawing enough money, I decided to stop and get lunch at the cafeteria, then to try the travel center at Sapporo Station, just to see if perchance there was a difference. Although it was a good experience for me to finally step into the large travel center at station, there was no such luck. The price was nearly identical. And the desk worker was considerably less interested in helping me than those at the smaller travel center. After leaving, I was perplexed as to what I should do. I really did not want to waste so much extra money on a ticket that I could get elsewhere for cheaper. Thanks to the suggestions of Eguchi, a Japanese student I have met, (and also many other friends!) I had spent lunch looking up prices on the discount airlines. These prices were generally about half that of the estimates the travel centers gave me. At the station, I asked if the prices would rise if I waited another day, and they said they wouldn't. So I decided to wait. Although I had been unsuccessful in purchasing a ticket, I was actually proud of myself for the accomplishment of communicating at not just one but two travel centers. Normally, I'm very nervous about going into such places and doing things on my own. While wandering back, I almost jokingly wrote on facebook asking if any Japanese folks with a credit card would be willing to purchase my ticket for me online and I could pay them the cash. trying to buy tickets. Proud that I actually successfully communicated at two travel centers. The Monday lecture that Professor Koike gives us was at 1PM for a change. When I arrived, Diao had brought me the container I had used for the squash I had brought to the thanksgiving get-together on Friday (that I had left so suddenly). Inside it, she had packed large slices of pumpkin pie that she had prepared! She brought it for me because I had been so worried for Becca, and as a result Diao had been so worried for me! It brought an instant smile to my face. Diao is so thoughtful and sweet! After lecture, I was further shocked to learn that Eguchi had agreed to buy my ticket online! I never actually expected anyone to agree to such an arrangement! He had already really helped me out by giving so many detailed suggestions about the process of buying tickets, so I was very shocked by his kindness. After class, the streets also became easier to walk because some of the snowpack had melted--I feel so much happier when I can walk with ease. That evening I sent my flight details to Eguchi, he bought the ticket, and we agreed to meet the next day at the agriculture building so I could pay him back.
Tuesday (12/4) -- Tuesday morning I had Kanji class, and then met Eguchi at 10:30AM at the agriculture building to pay him back.  It was raining, unfortunately. I handed Eguchi the money, and the pie (I sure hope he liked it). Then I headed back to the dorm all wet from the rain. In the evening, I had track practice as usual.
Wednesday (12/5) -- I had Japanese grammar class in the morning. While there, I brought up the idea to my classmate Magali about going to see the Hobbit movie together. I have been so looking forward (and also dreading...because of Peter Jackson's over-used "creative license") to the movie. Becca and I were originally supposed to see it together, but obviously because of Becca's sudden return to the U.S. and her injury, that was not possible. I certainly did not want to go to such a fun movie alone, after looking forward to it for so long. And I had considered asking Magali to join us, anyways. So I tried to bring it up casually not knowing if she would be interested. I was greatly relieved when she responded enthusiastically and said she would love to go! I said that I would go try to buy tickets straightaway after class (thinking that, since it is such a big, anticipated movie, I ought to get tickets before they sell out). I have never seen a movie in a Japanese theater, so I was not quite certain of how to do so. However, I had been keeping my eye out over the past week for a theater and learned that there is one located at the top floor of Sapporo Station, called Sapporo Cinema. So after class I headed there, walking at a brisk pace and excited but a little nervous about figuring out tickets. I wandered into the station, somehow navigated the tangle of escalators up to the seemingly hidden tenth floor. As most theaters, everything was quite dimly lit, with posters and waiting lines, and concession stands. I got in line, and when it was my turn I asked sheepishly (not knowing if it was possible to buy advance tickets) if I could buy 2 tickets for the Hobbit. As it turned out, that day was in fact the very first day advance tickets for the Hobbit were going for sale! It was not even 11AM, so I was probably the first person in Sapporo to buy tickets. (Indeed, as I would later learn, perhaps the first person in Hokkaido...!) I felt extremely accomplished. Leaving the station, most of the normally crowded restaurants were empty or just opening up and I realized then just how early it was in the day! That is the one advantage to my early morning class. In the evening, I had my Field Bioscience course. It is always a long, dark trek across campus which takes about 30 minutes to arrive at this class. After class, I had been asked by Joshua to go see the Sapporo White Illumination (christmas lights in Oodori Park). If I am honest, I felt so stressed about applications at this time, I was not particularly excited to go. I did not feel like I truly had the time to do such a thing, especially during the week. I had attempted to express this, but did not want to cause any disappointment, so went nonetheless. I said as we left from class that I could not spend much time there. So we walked hurriedly, and I felt bad for rushing Joshua along. He was really excited to see all the lights and to take pictures. But I knew, taking or gloves off so many times to take pictures was a bad idea. Any Minnesotan can tell you its a bad idea to keep taking off your gloves. Every time our hands got colder and colder. By the end, they were stinging sharply. I wish that Joshua had perhaps waited for another, less stressful day to go see the lights and then I would not have been so rushed. I do not like rushing people at all. After seeing all the lights and the little "Munhen (psuedo-German) Christmas" bazaar, I said that I really needed to head back. It's a bit of a walk all the way from campus to Oodori especially in the cold. Joshua, who is from Nigeria, asked if my hands stung and I said of course, but I am used to it. I felt so bad for him because he is not used to it at all! I tried to teach him the trick of blowing warm air on your hands, and mentioned that the real problem is if you CAN'T feel his hands at all. We stopped into a cell phone shop just outside of campus after he asked me to help translate one of his questions. By this point, it was around 8PM and I desperately wanted to get back to my dorm, and back to work. I felt that when we parted ways, perhaps he could sense my impatience and I felt bad for this. At the same time, I had made it very clear how busy I was, especially during the week. That night, I also baked a miniature strawberry pie to give Eguchi as a thank you. I made one for myself first to experiment with the recipe, and I think that it turned out really well. So I was excited to share it.
Thursday (12/6) -- I had Kanji class in the morning. It was a precarious walk, carrying the pie I had made. I am certain that I am destined one day to slip and fall while carrying something ridiculous like a pie. Our professor warned us of incoming bad weather and high winds, though they did not live up to her warning. I should have used my spare time to go to the campus Seikyou (coop) and apply for a credit card. I don't truly want a credit card for anything, except for purchasing plane tickets. As I've explained, there are a number of discount airlines that can only be booked online with a credit card. As I don't have one, I'm stuck relying on others or purchasing the twice as expensive tickets from other airlines. I've also been preoccupied with the personal statements for my graduate school applications. It sure is hard knowing what to write and what to say. It did become quite windy as the day progressed. Regrettably, I fell asleep for far too long in an attempt to take a nap. I should know better by now that once I fall asleep, I really fall asleep. Prior to a nap I had sent a message to one of the track leaders asking when and where practice would be. Occasionally on Thursdays practice is late, starting at 8PM. This is what I had expected. However, I was surprised to learn that practice would be at the regular 4:30PM, and in the much-desired gym even. I arrived a little early, and I should have helped everyone to go retrieve the hurdles to bring inside. However, I misunderstood what everyone was asking and only realized after going to change that I ought to have pitched in. I enjoyed the workout--it involved a circuit of three activities: medicine ball, hurdles, and lastly bounding. Throwing the medicine ball was no problem, but this time for the hurdles we were expected to jump with our feet together from a standing position, in a very distinct rhythm over the hurdles. This was not realistic for me, and even though the coach would say the rhythm as I jumped, it was impossible for me to replicate having never done before. It was really embarrassing to have to continue jumping, knowing I was doing the rhythm wrong.  The circuit was followed by mini hurdles and free time. For mini hurdles, we practice running, and jumping, over hurdles that are only perhaps a foot off the ground. I've definitely improved since the first time we did that routine. Now I felt smoother, and there were not as many people giggling at me. That made me feel better after the embarrassing jumping over the larger hurdles. I grabbed dinner in the shokudou then stopped at the grocery store for some strawberries to bake another pie. 
Friday (12/7)- Morning grammar class went as usual. In the evening class, my advisor Professor Koike was the lecturer again. I was really excited, because while some of the lectures are interesting, others can be a bit monotonous, and Professor Koike is always able to bring more energy to a lecture because he is very passionate about the topics. He even brought European style rye bread, baked by his wife! Professor Koike, if you have not learned already, is fascinated by many aspects of European (particularly German) culture. I helped to slice the bread since I arrived early. He also brought Basswood tree tea, that he had purchased in Germany. It smells like basswood honey, and although I am no great fan of tea, even I enjoy it. Part way through class, it felt as though the student next to me was kicking my chair. I ignored it at first, and then through him some glances to figure out why he was doing so, becoming a little annoyed. As I did so, the table and walls began ever so slightly to shiver. A Japanese student across the table said, in a tone more explanatory than surprised, "it's an earthquake."It was very, very weak but our chairs and table shook slightly. Our chairs all had wheels, so I think we could feel it even more. There was the subtle sound of the door and lamps shaking. Everyone was mostly quiet during the shaking, and then excited afterwards. I had almost forgotten about earthquakes! Boy was that an unexpected reminder.  Personally, I found it exhilarating and not frightening. At the same time, the magnitude here in Sapporo was very weak compared to farther south where it was about 7.3. Further south, the shaking was more frightening, though nothing serious. After class I walked partway with Diao, enjoying conversation and cautiously proceeding over the icey sidewalks. I parted ways with her about halfway, as I was headed to visit Kotaro and everyone as the Sugiyama house to give them a strawberry pie. I think it turned out quite well, except still too liquidy. Kotaro made spagetti for dinner, and invited me to join. He is a talented cook, as are many of the guys living in Sugiyama house. Around 9PM I walked home.
Saturday (12/8)-- In the morning it was very snowy. Luckily practice was just the four of us middle distance runners at the campus training center. It was only weightlifting, as well, which was a relief. Often the weekend workouts are the hardest. I really enjoyed myself, and Hanako-san was again patient with me. We usually end the workout with some sprints on the treadmill. I felt happy to be able to keep the same pace as Hanako-san. After practice, I went to Sapporo station. For the first time, I wandered into the Daimaru bakery. Daimaru is a department store, to explain again, and the basement level of most department stores is jammed full of groceries, bento stands, desserts, and bakeries. I let myself choose a few different breads, including a large loaf to eat with jam for breakfast. I had brought along a forestry textbook, and I attempted to study in a starbucks but it was far too crowded and hectic. That is, indeed, one of my lasting complaints about Japan--there are a million and one cafes, but never anywhere anywhere anywhere to sit. To top it off, walking and eating is considered rude. Quite a conundrum. Whenever I buy something to eat, I feel that I spend more than half an hour minimum searching for someplace to sit. Benches are a rarity. As the sun went down, I wandered over to the Sapporo White Illumination to go through the stands once more and look for Christmas gifts. I found some lovely window chimes. There was so much snow falling, however, it made being outdoors impractical, wet, and cold. I decided to buy some samosas from an Indian food vendor to bring home for dinner. The walk back took much longer in the cold snow, and I even ducked into the station to stand and thaw. By the time I made it back to the dorm, I was frozen. But I ate the samosas with brown rice, and they were delicious.
Sunday (12/9)--It was a chilly morning. The practice was at the Makomanai ice rink, on the upper warm-up track. Hanako-san very kindly met me at the station to ride with to practice. The workout was 9x300m. Anything under 400m I consider a sprint, and enjoy without as much trepidation as longer workouts. I really had fun this time, and although I'm still not as fast as I wish to be, I felt that there was an improvement. I didn't even feel very tired at the end, though I wish I could get my legs to move faster. A recently graduated teammate of Hanako-san had joined the team for practice, and because he was not quite in track shape, he even ran with Hanako-san and I instead of the guys. This was great motivation as well. For one of the first times, I joined the team for lunch afterwards. We had soba in the cafeteria underneath the track. Later in the day there was supposed to be a team meeting (the first I had heard of it, of course!). Hanako-san said it would be okay if I did not go, since I was busy and the meeting was unexpected. Furthermore, I explained, I probably would not understand anything! In the afternoon, I also went to look around a little more at Sapporo station to think about Christmas gifts. I've found this to be very difficult. I want to give my family and friends gifts that are unique to Japan, but also practical.
Monday (12/10)--Since Monday is the only day I don't have an early morning commitment of some sort, I woke up gloriously late--although perhaps later than was wise. I had planned to bake an apple pie to bring to Professor Koike's early afternoon lecture, since it would be the last before Christmas. I finished the pie just in time and headed out the door for the 1PM lecture. Diao had also made banana chocolate chip muffins, which were delicious. We had a desserts feast, and Koike-sensei was very surprised and happy about it. The lecture finished  about 3PM. Just before it became dark, I snuck in a run. I had a surprising amount of energy, and really enjoyed the run. At 6:30PM, I met with Magali for our weekly weight training. As I was jogging along, she biked up behind me and surprised me! She is always so cheerful, I really enjoy the positive attitude and motivation when working with her. I had inarizushi for supper and tried to study at the starbuck at Aeon in order to prepare for the kanji midterm the next day. Magali and I had commiserated about how many characters and vocabulary words we needed to memorize, and all their subtle differences. There are probably more than 300. I was particularly nervous, because I have not been feeling confident about my memorization abilities, nor about actually applying the meanings of the vocabulary words in daily conversation. It cheered me up, however, when I ordered a scone at the Starbucks and (although I hate coffee) the cashier gave me a free coffee as well. Too bad I really dislike coffee. But the thought was very kind! I stayed until almost 11PM studying, then went back to the dorm and studied a little more before falling asleep.
Tuesday (12/11)-- I woke up at about 6AM to review the many, many chapters of kanji for the midterm exam. I still did not feel confident. Outside, it was snowing hard. Covered in snow and braving the weather, I arrived to class, laid out my materials to review for a few more seconds, and steeled myself for a tough exam. Unexpectedly, an unfamiliar professor walked silently into the room and began to write on the white board. She wrote: "class canceled. Exam moved to Thursday." I couldn't believe it! At first I thought it had to be a mistake. Our kanji professor is rather strict about attendance and I thought that there was no way she would miss such an important class. But it turns out she was sick, and while at first I thought we would have to take the exam without her even being present, very fortunately she had moved the exam all together. I've never had such a strange experience in my life! At St. Olaf, an exam would virtually never be re-scheduled in such a way. And certainly not a midterm! It was fortuitous for me, because I wanted to study more. But I could also understand Magali's disappointment--she had prepared and just wanted to get it over with. I felt somewhat similarly (I had been expecting to take an exam, after all), but I counted my blessings, knowing that such an opportunity would never arise again. It meant I could focus even more. We also were scheduled to have our Japanese grammar midterm the next day, anyways. So it meant I could work on that with less stress. Even more surprising to me was the fact that a handful of students arrived after everyone had left, saw the note on the board, confirmed with us, and then left. That meant they would have arrived late for their midterm! Unbelievable! This same handful of students frequently arrives late for class. Once or twice I can understand, but everyday means that there is a serious time management problem going on.  I stayed in the classroom for a while to keep studying with Magali and a few other students. Then I headed out, and stopped by the bakery on the way. In the evening, the track workout was a circuit in the campus training center. In fact, it was this circuit that I had done on one of the very first practices I had ever attended. It was really encouraging to feel the improvement. After practice while cooling down with a teammate (Rinko-san), we discussed some of my favorite Disney movies. Robin Hood is high on my list. Rinko-san suggested that she would rent the movie and we could have Nabe together! I was so flattered by the invitation. For dinner, I had Tempura which wasn't too enjoyable. Far too greasy for me, and too fishy.
Wednesday (12/12)-- I had my Japanese grammar midterm. I felt that it went okay, but definitely not spectacularly. I was able to answer most questions fine, but there were some that I really second-guessed. I was not sure what the result would be. The rest of the day was defined, as so many things in Hokkaido are, by snow. To give you an idea, here is the note I wrote that day here on my journal: SO MUCH SNOW IT SNOWED ALL DAY. It must have been at least a foot all at once. I tried to study an ecology/forestry textbook til around noon in the library. Regrettably, libraries have a tendency to put me to sleep as much as I love them. I couldn't decide what to do for lunch, but I ended up seeking out a mysterious vegetarian restaurant I had learned was nearby. I wandered there quite haphazardly and decided if I could find it, I would eat there. Turns out it is literally right next to campus, and right next to the large Yodobashi Camera store I have mentioned as a landmark. It's been right under my nose this whole time. The food was delicious, all local, all organic, and all 100% vegetarian. It was such an incredible relief to eat there, not having to worry at all about the ingredients. And so so so delicious. Not expensive either! About 800 yen for a whole lunch set! I felt so happy all over afterwards, and healthy. I came back to the dorm to try tostudy some more, then dozed off a little. Snow snow snow. In the evening I had class. Afterwards Joshua wanted my input concerning text and a description for a photo he wanted to enter in a contest. I felt a little frustrated, because although I was flattered to be asked for my opinion, in such instances I think that an individual should write their own caption. I also get embarrassed about saying anything poetic about other people's photographs so I was at a loss for what to say. For dinner, I had Inarizushi and kabocha dinner. When I got back to my dorm, I realized that I think I drink too much hot cocoa because I don't have heat in my room yet. I drink a mug a day to keep warm! It's a shame I don't like tea, because that would be a much healthier option!

I am going to stop there for this entry. I am rather behind, as you can tell! But I will add more soon--about the end of the month of December, my birthday in Japan, and of course my incredible trip to Tokyo to visit my fellow ole, Kait. To give you an idea of how I have been feeling throughout December, I will say that it has been defined by finding my own abilities and own independence. My fellow Fulbrighter, Becca, unfortunately had to travel back to the U.S. for surgery, and so throughout the whole month I was for the first time all on my own. Although of course I missed Becca, I actually found this to be an invigorating and strengthening experience. I even felt, in some small way, excited for the chance to see how I would do on my own. After a full month, I do indeed feel that I have grown. I have become more confident in myself, and more able to do things on my own. I have realized more about who I am, and become comfortable with that. I have faults, to be sure, but I am happy to be me. In the time leading up to December, I was often feeling left out or as though I was grasping to follow others. Now I know to do what is best for me, while still being considerate of others. I am here to forge my own experience, and I do not necessarily need to cling to what is familiar. I am my own person, with my own perspective, and my own speed of moving.