I am still in awe that I made it to New Zealand. That has always been a dream of mine, one that I never imagined I would attain -- at least not for many, many years. I am so amazed and happy and grateful that I was brought to that part of the world. Being in Australia with my research opportunity at the Hawkesbury Institute brought me tantalizingly close to New Zealand. Once I realized this, I was determined to make it there. It is a short 3 hour flight, and with discount airlines such as Jetstar, and with a bit of forethought, the plane fare from Sydney to NZ is entirely manageable. If I had been able to plan even further ahead, it could have been incredibly inexpensive but I was just satisfied to realize it was attainable. And it is even more incredible that my sister was able to meet me there. Together, we road tripped through the South Island. Interestingly enough, this is the second birthday she has spent traveling with me -- last year, she was visiting me in Japan during the exact same period of time. Her birthday is on April 4th, and last year she was in Kyoto with me, this year in New Zealand. I've written up a little account of our trip. Just to give you a summary at a glance, it was 9 days on the South Island, traveling from Christchurch to Queenstown by car during April 3rd~12th. My route was Christchurch > Kaikoura >Punakaiki > Franz/Fox Glacier > Wanaka > Te Anau to Milford Sound > Queenstown/Glenorchy. From there, she flew back to Minnesota and I flew back to Sydney.
I arrived in Christchurch the night of April 2nd about 1AM then I made it through customs successfully and relatively quickly as it was not very busy at that time. It's definitely true, when in doubt about what you're bringing in such as outdoor equipment etc. just declare these items--everyone in customs was very friendly and I had no trouble with my camping gear, as I had cleaned it all as suggested. I took the airport shuttle to the Christchurch YMCA. I selected this hostel because you could check in at anytime, and I knew my flight was arriving late at night and just needed a bed. I got there by about 1:45AM. I didn't actually see this hostel at all in the light, so I can't say much about it except the beds were very rickety and narrow, and the ceiling so low that I bumped my head in the dark up on the top bunk, haha. But all I needed was a place to catch some sleep, so that was fine.
(Day 1) In the morning of April 3rd, I walked from the YMCA to the Apex car rental location and picked up the car by 8:30AM. It was a little hard for me to find at first, but once I realized the street it was on, it was no trouble at all. They were very friendly and helpful! I also rented a gps, which did indeed come in very handy for navigating, and not having to worry about getting lost. It was also quite conveniently located near some large grocery stores (Pak n Sav). I stocked up on groceries for the week. So I only had a brief glimpse, really, of Christchurch. Although walking to pick up the car gave me a bit more of a view of some of the damage and construction that is still ongoing.
Seeing that I still had quite an early start, I decided to try for Kaikoura. I had originally hoped to go there, but then it seemed there would not be enough time. However, I kept hearing so many good things about the area and so I decided to give it a go. I'm very glad that I did! The drive from Christchurch up to Kaikoura was so stunning. Of course, it was also my very first day in New Zealand and pretty much everything is stunning! I also found that the roads were not very busy at all! Most of the time it was just me, or a few other cars. I did have trouble with the speed limit. I was intimidated by the 100km/h on such narrow, winding roads and so I tended to go slower and try to let people pass (and gave me a good excuse to pull over and take pictures anyways!). I don't know how folks can drive so fast! But perhaps they are more accustomed to the roads than I am. In any case, by the early afternoon I arrived in Kaikoura, and did part of the peninsula walk and saw some groups of seals. On the drive up, grey skies in Christchurch had broken open to blue and sunshine, but by the time I was back on the coast in Kaikoura it had become a bit grey again. It gave the area a gloomier/subdued atmosphere, but it was still lovely. After walking around on the stones and rocky shore, and watching the snoozing seals (they were all pretty soundly asleep), and after jumping around over pools of water and seaweed for a few hours I got back on the road.
As I was already farther north, I opted to take the Lewis Pass making my way across to Punakaiki. One of my favorite stretches of road on the whole trip was actually the Kaikoura inland highway which I took to connect with the Lewis Pass, which was also so beautiful. I had printed out a complete map of DOC campsites, and there was one before Springs Junction and Maruia Springs called Deer Valley. I made it there about 8PM, just as the last light had disappeared. I was definitely glad not to be driving in the dark-- I had decided before hand not to drive at night, and especially after getting a feel for the roads, I made this an important rule to mind. This might have been my favorite campsite, actually. It was so quiet. There was one other group of people there, but the site has separate little parking spots for vehicles with space for tents beside them. It is literally just off the highway, but still sheltered and amidst the trees, with the lovely stream just behind them. It's also a free campsite! The night sky was clear and the stars were beautiful to watch as I went to bed.
(Day 2) I woke up early the next day and started driving just after sunrise. Only a short drive from the campsite, I came to Maruia Springs hot springs/resort. I hadn't planned to stop there, but I was really tempted to have a good shower and relaxing soak. They had just opened at 8:30AM and so I really had the whole place to myself, which was even more alluring. The sandflies attacked me in the outdoor baths, so I retreated to the indoor Japanese bath which was so nostalgic for me. Although this set me a bit behind for driving, I was feeling happy and refreshed when I got back on the road by about 10AM. Driving through the Victoria Forest, the trees were so amazing. I really wish that I had allowed myself some time to wander around there. But for the future! I made it to Punakaiki, and it was excellent warm, sunshine weather. I wasn't there at the right time to see the waves splash through the blow hole rocks, but it was still a nice stop to walk around, listen to the ocean, take pictures and enjoy. It also made me realize how much the landscape and flora of New Zealand changes in such a short distance. It felt so different from the drive the previous day, as I headed down the coast from Punakaiki towards Franz Josef. Here I collected more maps and information about trailheads, etc. then camped at the Gillespies Beach DOC site. An interesting campsite, and I got there at sunset and left at sunrise so regrettably didn't get to see much. While there were quite a few people camping, or with RVs or camper vans, there was still quite a lot of space nonetheless. The road to get there was a bit long, but probably worth it if you're planning to spend more time on the beach. Also, there were sheep everywhere just before the campsite itself! I suppose I should not have been surprised. It wasn't one of my favorite spots, though, mostly just because I let so many sandflies in, ha. During the night, it began to rain. Thus began my troubles--but of course, the weather is beyond control.
(Day 3) I had wanted to do some serious hiking this day, but with the rain my options swiftly narrowed. I stopped into some of the tour booking centers/ information centers to try to get suggestions about what to do in the rain and spent quite a while reconfiguring things. Rain really does cause trouble if you don't have much time--that would be another obvious advantage to having a longer trip, so that you can account for rainy days and poor weather. I didn't have that option, so I decided to head over to the Fox Glacier viewing area. The area around the Fox Glacier itself seemed so magnificent from what was visible, but a lot of the surroundings were veiled in cloud, rain, and mist. So it must be spectacular in clear weather. The rocks and moss and stream, and the bright blue pools even just in the parking area, were still impressive. It is not a long walk from the parking area up to the end of the path which overlooks the glacier itself. After that I did a shorter hike to the chalet viewing platform (about an hour) through the forest, which gave me a little introduction to the look and composition of the forests and the trails. It too was beautiful, but the rain was so persistent. I wore my rain gear, but at some point everything just becomes wet. Being so wet and soggy, and the mist and cloud and rain hiding so much of the landscape it was quite frustrating. I was also hesitant about some of the trails, which crossed creeks that could easily become dangerous in heavy rain.
So because of the weather, I was forced to admit defeat and change my plans for the time being. I did not want to make a long drive in such rain, and I also really, really wanted a chance to see the surrounds clearly. I was very unsure and indecisive, checking the weather many times, but eventually I gave in and, really wanting to be warm and dry, decided to spend the night in Franz Josef at a hostel. I believe it was Sir Cedric's that I decided upon. I checked in, then headed over to see the Franz Josef glacier and wander around a bit more in the rain before coming back to the hostel a couple hours before sunset to dry off. The hostel was really great, and very friendly. They had complimentary wifi, and free soup for dinner!!! That was perfect on such a wet, chilly day. I would highly recommend them. They even gave me a few dollars off the price, because I must have looked quite crestfallen. After eating, showering, I laid out my clothes in the hope that some of them would dry at least marginally. The rain had finally slowed to a mist, then stopped after sunset. Once it was dark, I grabbed my headlamp and walked over to a trail about 10 minutes away, which was supposed to have glow worms. I went to the end of the trail and turned off my light and did see a few glowing specks. But in fact it was along the length of the trail itself, I realized as I was walking back, that many more could be seen so I kept my light off the rest of the return. Then I got a good rest at the hostel, and woke up early the next day.
(Day 4) The weather was forecasted to have possible showers in the afternoon, but mixed cloud and sun in the morning. This is part of what swayed my decision to give the hikes in the area one last try, and the day before had persuaded me to stay in the area a bit longer. I caught my only glimpse of snow-capped peaks around me that morning, for a few moments on my drive back towards Fox. Then never again until Milford Sound towards the end, alas! The day before I had done a lot of inquiring about hikes and planning things out, finding the trailheads, etc. I kept doing research back and forth between Alexs Knob trail and the Mount Fox Trail.
Although it was cloudy, there were some breaks with little moments of sky, and these encouraged me to try Mount Fox. I double checked with the hostel and decided to go for it, but to be cautious. My plan was any rain and I turn back. The hike itself was definitely a challenging one, but also quite a lot of fun because of the challenge, and I was initially encouraged by little flecks of sun up above the canopy. The trail was marked by orange triangles and you needed to keep a close eye on it. There were spots that really were clamoring straight up tree roots and rock. It gave me a really in depth look at the forest, that was for sure. Everything was covered by moss and overflowing with plants and lichen. As I climbed, however, I could feel that there was less and less light above and more and more grey. The trail stays under tree cover for so long, I couldn't be sure what the conditions were becoming, but I sensed that the clouds and mists had moved in heavy around me even though it was still very early in the day. Sure enough, when the trail emerged from the trees and into open grass/plants/alpine shrubs and tree, the air was shrouded and misty around me. So that was the end of that. I continued on towards the top, but it was a thick fog around me and nothing could be seen below as far as a view. Just as I neared the top, I felt raindrops which was even more frustrating. I had to remind myself again that there is of course no controlling the weather (and also to be happy for those on the other side of the mountains, who were surely enjoying sunshine!). So with these signs of impending rain, I turned back to make my descent to try to avoid dangerous conditions. As I was hiking back down, nevertheless, the rain began to fall, making the process slow, tedious, and cautious. In fair weather, the hike would be amazing and I imagine the view would be too. But I would absolutely not recommend it unless it is 100% sunny and you start early. I started very early, knowing that mists usually move in towards the early afternoon, and climbed fast but the rainy weather arrived despite my efforts. The steepness of the trail didn't cause me any trouble and I was quite quick making my way up and navigating, even as I was being extra cautious. If it had been good weather, I think it definitely would have been among my lifetime favorite hikes. While I was frustrated, soaked, muddy, disappointed, and impatient climbing down, and while I would not do it again with any hint of cloud, I would absolutely want to hike it again. But I agree with descriptions that say you must be a fit and experienced hiker, and that you should be well-prepared for dangerous situations. I had prepared myself thoroughly the day before, and had the appropriate gear to deal with the conditions if they turned (and they did!), as well as in the case of any emergency.
So while the Fox/Franz Josef area was quite a disappointment in terms of weather and my ambitions to hike, (I never saw any of the scenery shown in photos, nor Mt. Cook) I took some comfort and reward in making the most of the rain anyways and seeing what I could. But if I had been there longer, it would not have been so urgent and perhaps I could have relaxed. In such rain if I were to return to the area, with more time and flexibility, it would have been a more comfortable use of time to do some jade carving for example in Franz Josef and wait out the poor weather! I was sorely tempted.
After making it down Mount Fox, it was around 2PM and so I decided to start on my way towards Wanaka. The weather was still grey and persistently rainy to misty and sprinkling. The drive was quite beautiful, but I really couldn't see much because it was such thick mist and cloud. I had the feeling that there were probably beautiful peaks around me, but could only imagine what lay behind the walls of grey. So the whole stretch from the Franz Josef area all the way to Wanaka is a bit of a mystery to me even though I've driven through. My goal was to stay at the Boundary Creek DOC campsite on Lake Hawea. Along the drive, I stopped here and there, threw on my raincoat, and took some pictures of what I could see, such as Thunder Falls (?), a few other water falls and views. I also stopped at the Blue Pools, which is the start of some longer trails and seems like a great place to hike on future trips. I only had time to do the little 30 minute loop out to the "blue pools" themselves and the bridges. By this point, I was so accustomed to the rain, it didn't dampen my enjoyment. The water here, as its name suggests and as can be seen many places throughout New Zealand, was such an amazing brilliant blue. It would perhaps be brighter in sunshine, but this time the subdued rain and grey gave it all a very interesting atmosphere. The trees crowding above the pool and stream, the brightness of the green mosses and lichen, the azure water...it was all still a calm way to end a strenuous day. I walked out into the cold water in the drizzle, soaking my feet and legs, then headed back to the car for the short drive to the campsite. I pulled in just as it was dark. Unfortunately, the rains returned during the night so it was quite wet again!
(Day 5) Woke up and started driving around sunrise towards Wanaka. The skies were still grey and misty. It did give Lake Hawea a grey, mysterious feeling. There were many long white clouds hovering above the water. There were some sections of road with beautiful grass and rolling steep hills and rock that I could see. I was nevertheless discouraged. I went to the DOC information center in Wanaka first. A very helpful, and very well-organized place, in fact. The building itself was also very nice, with some great informational displays. I asked them for their advice. I had wanted to hike the Rob Roy track, but because of the rain the previous days and the grey skies looking like rain, I wanted to know their opinions and experience. I knew that the road out to Rob Roy through the Matukituki Valley was described as a tedious one, not to be undertaken in bad conditions, so I also wanted to get more information. They advised me straight away that the road conditions were probably not suitable for anyone without 4 wheel drive given the rain. I ended up driving along the Mount Aspiring Road a ways, doing a bit of climbing on the Roys Peak trail, and taking it easy. There wasn't much for views, but by the afternoon there was no sign of rain and so even if it was still cloudy, it was dry! I used the rest of the day to make it towards Te Anau. The road from Wanaka to Queenstown was magnificent (though intimidating to drive!) with some really amazing views. There were also sections going through grassy scrub lands. Some pretty steep climbs for vehicles, and more sharp turns and challenging sections. But really amazing. I regretted again my lack of time, but hoped to return in the future. That evening I camped at the Mossburn Holiday Park, which is mostly for campervans and rvs, etc. but has tent sites as well. It was not as remote as the DOC sites, cost slightly more, and is interestingly a cow pasture during part of the season, but there were shower and kitchen facilities so it was refreshing and calm, and I highly recommend it.
(Day 6) I continued the short drive into Te Anau, filled up on gas, then decided to make my way into Milford Sound. The drive was spectacular, and the sun at LAST returned. Ah, it was quite glorious to see blue skies. So I counted myself lucky for that. I was distrustful that the weather would last, but thankful even so. Originally I had planned to spend more time in Te Anau, but due to all the changes, decided it was best to head onwards. Made it to Milford Sound by about 10:30AM, after enjoying many breathtaking views along the way as well as the experience of the Homer Tunnel--what a drive! I had not originally planned to take a boat tour. They are pricey and I didn't really have the money for it. But everyone seemed to be doing it, and everyone who I had met or spoken to in the previous days seemed to think it was absolutely necessary and that I was absurd not to (frankly, even just driving through the area is beautiful in my opinion!). I gave in and took a tour (I went with Orange, because they served complimentary fish and chips). They also had a charming sense of humor. It was really, truly beautiful, although perhaps I would have preferred doing a hike. Nonetheless, my legs were grateful for a calm day even if I'm not usually one for slow boats, and with the sunshine and landscape, I most certainly could not complain! The highlight was at the end, when the dolphins came to swim beneath the boat! That was admittedly surreal! The tour finished by about 2:30PM and I took my time, enjoying the area, as I headed to stake out a campsite early since the Milford Sound area was more touristy/busy than elsewhere. I first stopped at the Gunn Lake DOC campsite, but this was very, very small (although right on the lake and lovely) and there were already 5 cars there. I continued onwards a short ways to the Cascade Creek campsite, which was very large and spread out with many sites, each with its own place to park and little fire pit. It was nice to be able to have a campfire that evening and to relax while cooking some meals, pitching the tent early, and watching the evening mists descend into the valley. This was the first night, however, that it was down right COLD. Because the weather had been so warm and clear during the day, it was especially chilly. I ended up crawling into the car in the early morning hours before light in order to warm up a bit!
(Day 7) I was still wary of the weather after my experience with so much rain the previous days, but I had gained hope and energy that things were turning around. I had chosen a campsite that was close to the Gertrude Valley in order to start the Gertrude Saddle hike early in the day. There were a few clouds in the sky, and not quite as blue as the day before, but I remained encouraged. It was so nice to be such a short ways away from the trailhead--only a 20 minute or so drive--so I could really move more relaxed. I had so been looking forward to this hike. It turned out to be absolutely amazing, exceeding descriptions. Ah, it was wonderful. The first part is flat, over a thin narrow trail through the valley, coming to the head falls. Then it starts climbing, and boy does it climb. There are loose, gravelly sections, as well as massive jagged boulders, streams of water tumbling down the mountainside, moss and mountain daisies. The trail very quickly turns into more of an interpretative one, without markers except for the rock cairns left by previous hikers to mark a rough path. You can just pick out where the primary "path" is. After winding up dirt, stones, and looser rocks, you surmount a smoother rock face (with some steel cables bolted to the rock) and come to an alpine lake fed by the glaciers up above, and which feeds the streams that trickled down below it. Then you continue up the rocks and large boulders to the very top, with a breathtaking view of Milford Sound and the surrounding mountains. I could even see boats heading out on tours! Occasionally, a helicopter would swoop past above, and I felt pleased and rewarded that I had made my way up on foot. I absolutely 100% recommend this hike in fair weather. You will need to be in good physical condition, but even if you are not an expert hiker, I would recommend it as long as you allocate appropriate time, prepare yourself well, and wear appropriate gear. I made the climb up quite quickly and easily, but there were definitely many parts that would pose a challenge if you aren't in strong enough shape (or are afraid of heights!). Also, as many websites and descriptions recommend, it is NOT a hike for rainy weather. I could see it becoming extremely dangerous if the rocks were at all slippery. But on a bright, sunny day, there is absolutely no place I would rather be. I would have gladly turned around and hiked up again after climbing down. That afternoon, I made my way back in the direction of Queenstown and camped again at the Mossburn Holiday park as I found it to be a really perfect stopping point going both ways. (And also because hot showers are a nice reward).
(Day 8) Drove into Queenstown in the morning. Actually, I was quite intimidated and stressed by the amount of traffic (partly because of how many tourists and the traffic itself, but perhaps also in part because I had grown so accustomed to less busy drives!). Queenstown itself was nice at first, but I quickly came to dislike it. I was really overwhelmed by the number of tourists...ah, it was just so busy and stressful for me there. It might be some people's cup of tea, but I ended up regretting allocating much time in Queenstown itself. I think it is perhaps a good place to stop and get a hot meal, but I would not have spent any longer than that in the city despite its purported charm. (The surrounding land is QUITE another story; THAT is just amazing). My more negative experience of Queenstown likely has more to do with my own preferences, as I much prefer to be on a quiet trail or mountaintop, or forest path. I could see it being a lovely spot for those inclined to such things. I stopped into the Department of Conservation, tried to gather some information for a good, short hike in the area, walked a bit along the esplanade, then climbed Queenstown Hill. This was much more to my liking. Still too busy of a trail for me, but many of the people were very friendly which made up for it. An easy hour or so hike, but a great place to have a picnic and enjoy the spectacular landscape.
In the afternoon (happy to get away from the "bustle" of Queenstown) I headed on my way towards Glenorchy. That too was a spectacular drive. Just amazing. I made many stops along the way to admire the lake and the mountains, and the weather to my surprise was still favoring me with sun. I camped that night at the DOC Kinloch camp site, which was remote but also not remote at all, as it is managed by the lodge across the road. So that made it a bit less peaceful, even if the campsite itself was quite quiet. You can't really ask for a better view, though! I watched the sunset over dinner, and the sunrise over breakfast. The sandflies were hardly out at all!
(Day 9) In the morning, I did the Trilogy Loop ride at Dart Stables. I love riding, and I'm quite experienced, so I wanted the opportunity to do more cantering than just a simple walk. It was a three hour ride through such amazing landscapes. I think at this point I had been "saturated" by the beauty around me, or I was still captured in a perpetual state of awe. Every way you look on the south island, there is something beautiful and unique. The ride was lovely, the guide was wonderful, and I enjoyed the calm of Glenorchy. After the ride, I drove a short ways towards Paradise, but did not want to go too far as the roads become rough farther along. One of my greatest regrets is that I did not go through a hike in the woods here! I do not know what I was thinking! I spent only a short time beneath them, had lunch, and started to make my ways back towards Queenstown. I suppose I was nervous to make sure I returned the rental car on time, and wanted to make sure I allocated plenty of time to fill up the tank and find a parking spot. After dropping of my gear and bags at the hostel, I successfully returned the car (again the Apex employee was simply wonderful and so lovely to speak with). I have to say, I was so happy with my experience with Apex. It was perfect--positive in every way. Every one of their employees that I spoke with was kind, helpful, and understanding throughout. So I would strongly recommend them for those renting a vehicle while in New Zealand! They were outstanding, and helped to make the trip wonderful. I will definitely rent from them again if I am back!!
After dropping off the car, I decided to try out a FergBurger, as it was so strongly recommended -- yup, it was delicious, although HUGE. I thought it was really reasonably priced for such an amount of food. I am a vegetarian, and their veggie options were scrumptious. I stayed at Bumbles backpackers, and although the receptionist was so nice and friendly, I didn't really enjoy my night there at all. The room had one bathroom, placed awkwardly in a room with separate beds. The kitchen didn't have many places to sit. I also did not especially appreciate the the Queenstown younger tourist crowd in general (who I found to be, well....a bit of a nuisance...but that is probably just my own sensibilities and preferences) and everyone came back loudly and very disruptively all throughout the night--even talking loudly in the room in groups at 2:30AM. A common problem at hostels, I suppose, which can't always be avoided and is of course a risk of shared space. I had to be awake by 6AM to catch the shuttle to the airport for my flight. In the night, it started to rain again, and so it was a wet and dreary wait for the shuttle in the rain, as well as a dreary feeling surrounding my sadness to see the trip ending.
All in all, I am so happy that I went. I had so many incredible experiences, and saw such amazing places. As I knew going into the trip, it was a woefully short amount of time to spend in New Zealand. I feel like my trip through the south island might be compared to the feeling of opening a book, flipping through it in a flourish of pages and pictures, and then trying to piece together a full story from that glimpse--there will be many holes, and a very incomplete experience, that does not leave you feeling satiated. But that could not be avoided, given the time constraints, and I'm very happy for the amount that I did see! I will consider it an introduction to the south island, and one that I think has left me very well-prepared to (hopefully!) one day tackle a much longer adventure.
I arrived in Christchurch the night of April 2nd about 1AM then I made it through customs successfully and relatively quickly as it was not very busy at that time. It's definitely true, when in doubt about what you're bringing in such as outdoor equipment etc. just declare these items--everyone in customs was very friendly and I had no trouble with my camping gear, as I had cleaned it all as suggested. I took the airport shuttle to the Christchurch YMCA. I selected this hostel because you could check in at anytime, and I knew my flight was arriving late at night and just needed a bed. I got there by about 1:45AM. I didn't actually see this hostel at all in the light, so I can't say much about it except the beds were very rickety and narrow, and the ceiling so low that I bumped my head in the dark up on the top bunk, haha. But all I needed was a place to catch some sleep, so that was fine.
(Day 1) In the morning of April 3rd, I walked from the YMCA to the Apex car rental location and picked up the car by 8:30AM. It was a little hard for me to find at first, but once I realized the street it was on, it was no trouble at all. They were very friendly and helpful! I also rented a gps, which did indeed come in very handy for navigating, and not having to worry about getting lost. It was also quite conveniently located near some large grocery stores (Pak n Sav). I stocked up on groceries for the week. So I only had a brief glimpse, really, of Christchurch. Although walking to pick up the car gave me a bit more of a view of some of the damage and construction that is still ongoing.
Seeing that I still had quite an early start, I decided to try for Kaikoura. I had originally hoped to go there, but then it seemed there would not be enough time. However, I kept hearing so many good things about the area and so I decided to give it a go. I'm very glad that I did! The drive from Christchurch up to Kaikoura was so stunning. Of course, it was also my very first day in New Zealand and pretty much everything is stunning! I also found that the roads were not very busy at all! Most of the time it was just me, or a few other cars. I did have trouble with the speed limit. I was intimidated by the 100km/h on such narrow, winding roads and so I tended to go slower and try to let people pass (and gave me a good excuse to pull over and take pictures anyways!). I don't know how folks can drive so fast! But perhaps they are more accustomed to the roads than I am. In any case, by the early afternoon I arrived in Kaikoura, and did part of the peninsula walk and saw some groups of seals. On the drive up, grey skies in Christchurch had broken open to blue and sunshine, but by the time I was back on the coast in Kaikoura it had become a bit grey again. It gave the area a gloomier/subdued atmosphere, but it was still lovely. After walking around on the stones and rocky shore, and watching the snoozing seals (they were all pretty soundly asleep), and after jumping around over pools of water and seaweed for a few hours I got back on the road.
As I was already farther north, I opted to take the Lewis Pass making my way across to Punakaiki. One of my favorite stretches of road on the whole trip was actually the Kaikoura inland highway which I took to connect with the Lewis Pass, which was also so beautiful. I had printed out a complete map of DOC campsites, and there was one before Springs Junction and Maruia Springs called Deer Valley. I made it there about 8PM, just as the last light had disappeared. I was definitely glad not to be driving in the dark-- I had decided before hand not to drive at night, and especially after getting a feel for the roads, I made this an important rule to mind. This might have been my favorite campsite, actually. It was so quiet. There was one other group of people there, but the site has separate little parking spots for vehicles with space for tents beside them. It is literally just off the highway, but still sheltered and amidst the trees, with the lovely stream just behind them. It's also a free campsite! The night sky was clear and the stars were beautiful to watch as I went to bed.
(Day 2) I woke up early the next day and started driving just after sunrise. Only a short drive from the campsite, I came to Maruia Springs hot springs/resort. I hadn't planned to stop there, but I was really tempted to have a good shower and relaxing soak. They had just opened at 8:30AM and so I really had the whole place to myself, which was even more alluring. The sandflies attacked me in the outdoor baths, so I retreated to the indoor Japanese bath which was so nostalgic for me. Although this set me a bit behind for driving, I was feeling happy and refreshed when I got back on the road by about 10AM. Driving through the Victoria Forest, the trees were so amazing. I really wish that I had allowed myself some time to wander around there. But for the future! I made it to Punakaiki, and it was excellent warm, sunshine weather. I wasn't there at the right time to see the waves splash through the blow hole rocks, but it was still a nice stop to walk around, listen to the ocean, take pictures and enjoy. It also made me realize how much the landscape and flora of New Zealand changes in such a short distance. It felt so different from the drive the previous day, as I headed down the coast from Punakaiki towards Franz Josef. Here I collected more maps and information about trailheads, etc. then camped at the Gillespies Beach DOC site. An interesting campsite, and I got there at sunset and left at sunrise so regrettably didn't get to see much. While there were quite a few people camping, or with RVs or camper vans, there was still quite a lot of space nonetheless. The road to get there was a bit long, but probably worth it if you're planning to spend more time on the beach. Also, there were sheep everywhere just before the campsite itself! I suppose I should not have been surprised. It wasn't one of my favorite spots, though, mostly just because I let so many sandflies in, ha. During the night, it began to rain. Thus began my troubles--but of course, the weather is beyond control.
(Day 3) I had wanted to do some serious hiking this day, but with the rain my options swiftly narrowed. I stopped into some of the tour booking centers/ information centers to try to get suggestions about what to do in the rain and spent quite a while reconfiguring things. Rain really does cause trouble if you don't have much time--that would be another obvious advantage to having a longer trip, so that you can account for rainy days and poor weather. I didn't have that option, so I decided to head over to the Fox Glacier viewing area. The area around the Fox Glacier itself seemed so magnificent from what was visible, but a lot of the surroundings were veiled in cloud, rain, and mist. So it must be spectacular in clear weather. The rocks and moss and stream, and the bright blue pools even just in the parking area, were still impressive. It is not a long walk from the parking area up to the end of the path which overlooks the glacier itself. After that I did a shorter hike to the chalet viewing platform (about an hour) through the forest, which gave me a little introduction to the look and composition of the forests and the trails. It too was beautiful, but the rain was so persistent. I wore my rain gear, but at some point everything just becomes wet. Being so wet and soggy, and the mist and cloud and rain hiding so much of the landscape it was quite frustrating. I was also hesitant about some of the trails, which crossed creeks that could easily become dangerous in heavy rain.
So because of the weather, I was forced to admit defeat and change my plans for the time being. I did not want to make a long drive in such rain, and I also really, really wanted a chance to see the surrounds clearly. I was very unsure and indecisive, checking the weather many times, but eventually I gave in and, really wanting to be warm and dry, decided to spend the night in Franz Josef at a hostel. I believe it was Sir Cedric's that I decided upon. I checked in, then headed over to see the Franz Josef glacier and wander around a bit more in the rain before coming back to the hostel a couple hours before sunset to dry off. The hostel was really great, and very friendly. They had complimentary wifi, and free soup for dinner!!! That was perfect on such a wet, chilly day. I would highly recommend them. They even gave me a few dollars off the price, because I must have looked quite crestfallen. After eating, showering, I laid out my clothes in the hope that some of them would dry at least marginally. The rain had finally slowed to a mist, then stopped after sunset. Once it was dark, I grabbed my headlamp and walked over to a trail about 10 minutes away, which was supposed to have glow worms. I went to the end of the trail and turned off my light and did see a few glowing specks. But in fact it was along the length of the trail itself, I realized as I was walking back, that many more could be seen so I kept my light off the rest of the return. Then I got a good rest at the hostel, and woke up early the next day.
(Day 4) The weather was forecasted to have possible showers in the afternoon, but mixed cloud and sun in the morning. This is part of what swayed my decision to give the hikes in the area one last try, and the day before had persuaded me to stay in the area a bit longer. I caught my only glimpse of snow-capped peaks around me that morning, for a few moments on my drive back towards Fox. Then never again until Milford Sound towards the end, alas! The day before I had done a lot of inquiring about hikes and planning things out, finding the trailheads, etc. I kept doing research back and forth between Alexs Knob trail and the Mount Fox Trail.
Although it was cloudy, there were some breaks with little moments of sky, and these encouraged me to try Mount Fox. I double checked with the hostel and decided to go for it, but to be cautious. My plan was any rain and I turn back. The hike itself was definitely a challenging one, but also quite a lot of fun because of the challenge, and I was initially encouraged by little flecks of sun up above the canopy. The trail was marked by orange triangles and you needed to keep a close eye on it. There were spots that really were clamoring straight up tree roots and rock. It gave me a really in depth look at the forest, that was for sure. Everything was covered by moss and overflowing with plants and lichen. As I climbed, however, I could feel that there was less and less light above and more and more grey. The trail stays under tree cover for so long, I couldn't be sure what the conditions were becoming, but I sensed that the clouds and mists had moved in heavy around me even though it was still very early in the day. Sure enough, when the trail emerged from the trees and into open grass/plants/alpine shrubs and tree, the air was shrouded and misty around me. So that was the end of that. I continued on towards the top, but it was a thick fog around me and nothing could be seen below as far as a view. Just as I neared the top, I felt raindrops which was even more frustrating. I had to remind myself again that there is of course no controlling the weather (and also to be happy for those on the other side of the mountains, who were surely enjoying sunshine!). So with these signs of impending rain, I turned back to make my descent to try to avoid dangerous conditions. As I was hiking back down, nevertheless, the rain began to fall, making the process slow, tedious, and cautious. In fair weather, the hike would be amazing and I imagine the view would be too. But I would absolutely not recommend it unless it is 100% sunny and you start early. I started very early, knowing that mists usually move in towards the early afternoon, and climbed fast but the rainy weather arrived despite my efforts. The steepness of the trail didn't cause me any trouble and I was quite quick making my way up and navigating, even as I was being extra cautious. If it had been good weather, I think it definitely would have been among my lifetime favorite hikes. While I was frustrated, soaked, muddy, disappointed, and impatient climbing down, and while I would not do it again with any hint of cloud, I would absolutely want to hike it again. But I agree with descriptions that say you must be a fit and experienced hiker, and that you should be well-prepared for dangerous situations. I had prepared myself thoroughly the day before, and had the appropriate gear to deal with the conditions if they turned (and they did!), as well as in the case of any emergency.
So while the Fox/Franz Josef area was quite a disappointment in terms of weather and my ambitions to hike, (I never saw any of the scenery shown in photos, nor Mt. Cook) I took some comfort and reward in making the most of the rain anyways and seeing what I could. But if I had been there longer, it would not have been so urgent and perhaps I could have relaxed. In such rain if I were to return to the area, with more time and flexibility, it would have been a more comfortable use of time to do some jade carving for example in Franz Josef and wait out the poor weather! I was sorely tempted.
After making it down Mount Fox, it was around 2PM and so I decided to start on my way towards Wanaka. The weather was still grey and persistently rainy to misty and sprinkling. The drive was quite beautiful, but I really couldn't see much because it was such thick mist and cloud. I had the feeling that there were probably beautiful peaks around me, but could only imagine what lay behind the walls of grey. So the whole stretch from the Franz Josef area all the way to Wanaka is a bit of a mystery to me even though I've driven through. My goal was to stay at the Boundary Creek DOC campsite on Lake Hawea. Along the drive, I stopped here and there, threw on my raincoat, and took some pictures of what I could see, such as Thunder Falls (?), a few other water falls and views. I also stopped at the Blue Pools, which is the start of some longer trails and seems like a great place to hike on future trips. I only had time to do the little 30 minute loop out to the "blue pools" themselves and the bridges. By this point, I was so accustomed to the rain, it didn't dampen my enjoyment. The water here, as its name suggests and as can be seen many places throughout New Zealand, was such an amazing brilliant blue. It would perhaps be brighter in sunshine, but this time the subdued rain and grey gave it all a very interesting atmosphere. The trees crowding above the pool and stream, the brightness of the green mosses and lichen, the azure water...it was all still a calm way to end a strenuous day. I walked out into the cold water in the drizzle, soaking my feet and legs, then headed back to the car for the short drive to the campsite. I pulled in just as it was dark. Unfortunately, the rains returned during the night so it was quite wet again!
(Day 5) Woke up and started driving around sunrise towards Wanaka. The skies were still grey and misty. It did give Lake Hawea a grey, mysterious feeling. There were many long white clouds hovering above the water. There were some sections of road with beautiful grass and rolling steep hills and rock that I could see. I was nevertheless discouraged. I went to the DOC information center in Wanaka first. A very helpful, and very well-organized place, in fact. The building itself was also very nice, with some great informational displays. I asked them for their advice. I had wanted to hike the Rob Roy track, but because of the rain the previous days and the grey skies looking like rain, I wanted to know their opinions and experience. I knew that the road out to Rob Roy through the Matukituki Valley was described as a tedious one, not to be undertaken in bad conditions, so I also wanted to get more information. They advised me straight away that the road conditions were probably not suitable for anyone without 4 wheel drive given the rain. I ended up driving along the Mount Aspiring Road a ways, doing a bit of climbing on the Roys Peak trail, and taking it easy. There wasn't much for views, but by the afternoon there was no sign of rain and so even if it was still cloudy, it was dry! I used the rest of the day to make it towards Te Anau. The road from Wanaka to Queenstown was magnificent (though intimidating to drive!) with some really amazing views. There were also sections going through grassy scrub lands. Some pretty steep climbs for vehicles, and more sharp turns and challenging sections. But really amazing. I regretted again my lack of time, but hoped to return in the future. That evening I camped at the Mossburn Holiday Park, which is mostly for campervans and rvs, etc. but has tent sites as well. It was not as remote as the DOC sites, cost slightly more, and is interestingly a cow pasture during part of the season, but there were shower and kitchen facilities so it was refreshing and calm, and I highly recommend it.
(Day 6) I continued the short drive into Te Anau, filled up on gas, then decided to make my way into Milford Sound. The drive was spectacular, and the sun at LAST returned. Ah, it was quite glorious to see blue skies. So I counted myself lucky for that. I was distrustful that the weather would last, but thankful even so. Originally I had planned to spend more time in Te Anau, but due to all the changes, decided it was best to head onwards. Made it to Milford Sound by about 10:30AM, after enjoying many breathtaking views along the way as well as the experience of the Homer Tunnel--what a drive! I had not originally planned to take a boat tour. They are pricey and I didn't really have the money for it. But everyone seemed to be doing it, and everyone who I had met or spoken to in the previous days seemed to think it was absolutely necessary and that I was absurd not to (frankly, even just driving through the area is beautiful in my opinion!). I gave in and took a tour (I went with Orange, because they served complimentary fish and chips). They also had a charming sense of humor. It was really, truly beautiful, although perhaps I would have preferred doing a hike. Nonetheless, my legs were grateful for a calm day even if I'm not usually one for slow boats, and with the sunshine and landscape, I most certainly could not complain! The highlight was at the end, when the dolphins came to swim beneath the boat! That was admittedly surreal! The tour finished by about 2:30PM and I took my time, enjoying the area, as I headed to stake out a campsite early since the Milford Sound area was more touristy/busy than elsewhere. I first stopped at the Gunn Lake DOC campsite, but this was very, very small (although right on the lake and lovely) and there were already 5 cars there. I continued onwards a short ways to the Cascade Creek campsite, which was very large and spread out with many sites, each with its own place to park and little fire pit. It was nice to be able to have a campfire that evening and to relax while cooking some meals, pitching the tent early, and watching the evening mists descend into the valley. This was the first night, however, that it was down right COLD. Because the weather had been so warm and clear during the day, it was especially chilly. I ended up crawling into the car in the early morning hours before light in order to warm up a bit!
(Day 7) I was still wary of the weather after my experience with so much rain the previous days, but I had gained hope and energy that things were turning around. I had chosen a campsite that was close to the Gertrude Valley in order to start the Gertrude Saddle hike early in the day. There were a few clouds in the sky, and not quite as blue as the day before, but I remained encouraged. It was so nice to be such a short ways away from the trailhead--only a 20 minute or so drive--so I could really move more relaxed. I had so been looking forward to this hike. It turned out to be absolutely amazing, exceeding descriptions. Ah, it was wonderful. The first part is flat, over a thin narrow trail through the valley, coming to the head falls. Then it starts climbing, and boy does it climb. There are loose, gravelly sections, as well as massive jagged boulders, streams of water tumbling down the mountainside, moss and mountain daisies. The trail very quickly turns into more of an interpretative one, without markers except for the rock cairns left by previous hikers to mark a rough path. You can just pick out where the primary "path" is. After winding up dirt, stones, and looser rocks, you surmount a smoother rock face (with some steel cables bolted to the rock) and come to an alpine lake fed by the glaciers up above, and which feeds the streams that trickled down below it. Then you continue up the rocks and large boulders to the very top, with a breathtaking view of Milford Sound and the surrounding mountains. I could even see boats heading out on tours! Occasionally, a helicopter would swoop past above, and I felt pleased and rewarded that I had made my way up on foot. I absolutely 100% recommend this hike in fair weather. You will need to be in good physical condition, but even if you are not an expert hiker, I would recommend it as long as you allocate appropriate time, prepare yourself well, and wear appropriate gear. I made the climb up quite quickly and easily, but there were definitely many parts that would pose a challenge if you aren't in strong enough shape (or are afraid of heights!). Also, as many websites and descriptions recommend, it is NOT a hike for rainy weather. I could see it becoming extremely dangerous if the rocks were at all slippery. But on a bright, sunny day, there is absolutely no place I would rather be. I would have gladly turned around and hiked up again after climbing down. That afternoon, I made my way back in the direction of Queenstown and camped again at the Mossburn Holiday park as I found it to be a really perfect stopping point going both ways. (And also because hot showers are a nice reward).
(Day 8) Drove into Queenstown in the morning. Actually, I was quite intimidated and stressed by the amount of traffic (partly because of how many tourists and the traffic itself, but perhaps also in part because I had grown so accustomed to less busy drives!). Queenstown itself was nice at first, but I quickly came to dislike it. I was really overwhelmed by the number of tourists...ah, it was just so busy and stressful for me there. It might be some people's cup of tea, but I ended up regretting allocating much time in Queenstown itself. I think it is perhaps a good place to stop and get a hot meal, but I would not have spent any longer than that in the city despite its purported charm. (The surrounding land is QUITE another story; THAT is just amazing). My more negative experience of Queenstown likely has more to do with my own preferences, as I much prefer to be on a quiet trail or mountaintop, or forest path. I could see it being a lovely spot for those inclined to such things. I stopped into the Department of Conservation, tried to gather some information for a good, short hike in the area, walked a bit along the esplanade, then climbed Queenstown Hill. This was much more to my liking. Still too busy of a trail for me, but many of the people were very friendly which made up for it. An easy hour or so hike, but a great place to have a picnic and enjoy the spectacular landscape.
In the afternoon (happy to get away from the "bustle" of Queenstown) I headed on my way towards Glenorchy. That too was a spectacular drive. Just amazing. I made many stops along the way to admire the lake and the mountains, and the weather to my surprise was still favoring me with sun. I camped that night at the DOC Kinloch camp site, which was remote but also not remote at all, as it is managed by the lodge across the road. So that made it a bit less peaceful, even if the campsite itself was quite quiet. You can't really ask for a better view, though! I watched the sunset over dinner, and the sunrise over breakfast. The sandflies were hardly out at all!
(Day 9) In the morning, I did the Trilogy Loop ride at Dart Stables. I love riding, and I'm quite experienced, so I wanted the opportunity to do more cantering than just a simple walk. It was a three hour ride through such amazing landscapes. I think at this point I had been "saturated" by the beauty around me, or I was still captured in a perpetual state of awe. Every way you look on the south island, there is something beautiful and unique. The ride was lovely, the guide was wonderful, and I enjoyed the calm of Glenorchy. After the ride, I drove a short ways towards Paradise, but did not want to go too far as the roads become rough farther along. One of my greatest regrets is that I did not go through a hike in the woods here! I do not know what I was thinking! I spent only a short time beneath them, had lunch, and started to make my ways back towards Queenstown. I suppose I was nervous to make sure I returned the rental car on time, and wanted to make sure I allocated plenty of time to fill up the tank and find a parking spot. After dropping of my gear and bags at the hostel, I successfully returned the car (again the Apex employee was simply wonderful and so lovely to speak with). I have to say, I was so happy with my experience with Apex. It was perfect--positive in every way. Every one of their employees that I spoke with was kind, helpful, and understanding throughout. So I would strongly recommend them for those renting a vehicle while in New Zealand! They were outstanding, and helped to make the trip wonderful. I will definitely rent from them again if I am back!!
After dropping off the car, I decided to try out a FergBurger, as it was so strongly recommended -- yup, it was delicious, although HUGE. I thought it was really reasonably priced for such an amount of food. I am a vegetarian, and their veggie options were scrumptious. I stayed at Bumbles backpackers, and although the receptionist was so nice and friendly, I didn't really enjoy my night there at all. The room had one bathroom, placed awkwardly in a room with separate beds. The kitchen didn't have many places to sit. I also did not especially appreciate the the Queenstown younger tourist crowd in general (who I found to be, well....a bit of a nuisance...but that is probably just my own sensibilities and preferences) and everyone came back loudly and very disruptively all throughout the night--even talking loudly in the room in groups at 2:30AM. A common problem at hostels, I suppose, which can't always be avoided and is of course a risk of shared space. I had to be awake by 6AM to catch the shuttle to the airport for my flight. In the night, it started to rain again, and so it was a wet and dreary wait for the shuttle in the rain, as well as a dreary feeling surrounding my sadness to see the trip ending.
All in all, I am so happy that I went. I had so many incredible experiences, and saw such amazing places. As I knew going into the trip, it was a woefully short amount of time to spend in New Zealand. I feel like my trip through the south island might be compared to the feeling of opening a book, flipping through it in a flourish of pages and pictures, and then trying to piece together a full story from that glimpse--there will be many holes, and a very incomplete experience, that does not leave you feeling satiated. But that could not be avoided, given the time constraints, and I'm very happy for the amount that I did see! I will consider it an introduction to the south island, and one that I think has left me very well-prepared to (hopefully!) one day tackle a much longer adventure.
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