We left this morning, Fourth of July, from Ponca City. The roads were relatively calm at 7am, due to the holiday which was a help. We started off on 77, then immediately cut over to a back road called Pecan. This took us peacefully to north to the small town of Newkirk. It was walled on either side by corn and crop fields, bright green in the morning sun. We even saw to deer silhouetted on a small foot bridge, who curiously watched us pass from the distance. There were birds chirping now and again, and the land had leveled out to be more level, with gentle rises and falls and none of the long, relentless climbs of much of Oklahoma. We knew we were on our way to Kansas.
In fact, the Oklahoma-Kansas stateline is probably around 20 some miles from Ponca City. We made a good pace on the smooth, calm road before cutting back over to highway 77. The shoulder was decent, but most importantly, it existed and that was all we cared about at this point. We made last stop at a gas station in Oklahoma for something cool to drink, and then only a few miles later we were in Kansas. We've now completed two whole states, Texas and Oklahoma! We have also passed through a number of nations: Choctaw, Chickasaw, Seminole, Citizen Potawatomi, Sac and Fox, Ponca, (and likely more that along that I may have forgotten to list). As a whole, Oklahoma is very beautiful. I was often in awe of the sprawling lands around me, unfolding in hazy green hills into the distance. There were many horse pastures as we rode, and they always put their heads up to watch us two strange creatures roll by. Oklahoma was also noticeably more spread out than Texas, often with stretches of field or trees without homes, towns, or gas stations in between. As a result of this more sparse nature (and not sparse as in empty, as there was always something around us, green or growing, or out of sight but rather less densely built) we had many a streak without being chased by dogs! There simply weren't any around, as there were fewer drive ways or homes in between. But what I will never forget is that Oklahoma means hills. Hills. Hills. So remember that if you choose to tackle it on bike!
We were told by many along the way that once we reached Kansas, not only would there be more rest stops etc, but the roads would be far less rough and far better for biking. Not only that, but as you can guess, it is a lot flatter. Still some hills, but kinder. We continued northwards along a greenway parallel to 77 and then 77 itself and indeed gained more and more speed. We saw two cyclists along this greenway road to Winfield. We have only seen a handful of cyclists through most of Texas and Oklahoma ( though we did find some surprising pockets such as on Seminole for mountain biking and Stillwater, and increasing prevalence as we moved northwards through the state), and always react now to seeing cyclists as one might react to seeing a rare creature stride by out of the blue. We actually circled around to say hello to them at the intersection, but they were interested in continuing their own ride and merely gave us a nod. We felt silly, as they turned onto the same road we were headed down and biked along after them from a distance. I suppose they do not share our current state of shock at seeing bikers, as it is more common here! We got back onto 77 and entered Winfield where we were surprised to see a walmart even! It seems Kansas really does have more towns and infrastructure. Back home, normally we would not be at all excited to see a walmart, but to us it was almost a site for sore eyes -- though don't get me wrong, I usually prefer the openness and calmness of more remote countryside -- as it meant tire tubes. Laurel had two flats yesterday, one on her back tire after one on her front. After our many flats, we know that we must travel with two spares minimum so after using this up and patching a few, we knew we really needed to find some spares. We picked these up and ate a bit, then we were on our way again.
Following 77 north, we absolutely flew! There were still some uphills, but some great gentle downhills as well and though the shoulder was narrow it was smooth and the road was quick. The drivers also gave us generous leeway as they passed, some even honking in support. A motorcyclists even honked and gave us a thumbs up, which we returned of course. For the first time since northern Texas, I was able to keep my left bike gear in two and not one, and my right often up to nine! I relished the easy but present push against the pedals, powering me forward so fleetly. I was pedaling almost as fast as I could, racing. We also had the wind helping us, and though it was not strong, it was at our backs which is all we need. It has been so long since I have been able to cruise that fast, almost effortlessly, but definitely with an almost tangible excitement. The difficult hills and climbs of Oklahoma wore me down to the bone, but at the same time, they likely strengthened me. I could feel some new strength in my legs, which I was grateful to set to first use and welcome speed. I suspect we looked quite wild!
We covered some 30 plus miles in short time. About 12 miles out from Augusta, we stopped at a gas station. There were many people pulling in and out, getting ice and drinks and things no doubt for Fourth of July. Everyone was greeting each other happily and familiarly. An older man with a playful sense of humor played jokes and greeted many people, including both Laurel and I and gave us both a slap on the back and a smile. We contemplated continuing on to El dorado state park for the night, which would bring us to 100 miles for the day. We were both feeling good, and the roads were good too, but after deliberating decided that it is still a bit too soon to attempt 100 miles (even though I think we could do it) and that we might be suddenly wiped out part way. So we found a cheap place in Augusta, savoring arriving so early (just after 3:00) even after 75 or so miles. We walked around town looking for someplace that might be open for a meal or icecream. Of course, no local places were open, but we did find a Dairy Queen and settled on that. I had a nostalgic mr misty float (which folks younger than me might not even know, as that is the old name for a slushie with icecream in it). After that, out of intrigue we finally stepped into a fireworks stand. They had all sorts of different things, but neither of us do much for fireworks. Still, I bought a couple Roman candles and sparklers, so we may set those off!!
In other news, my dad and brother have decided to come meet up with us for the holiday weekend and are currently on their way to Lincoln NE and then down to intersect with us. My dad is always taking on ambitious plans -- and usually motivated by love for his kids. So I am looking forward to seeing them.
Tomorrow, we head further north through Kansas. We are currently a little ways east of Wichita, and our next goal is Herington. The pipeline goes more or less due north from Cushing to Steele City NE, which is our next major goal point. From Steele City onwards we will be following the proposed Keystone XL route, and no longer operational pipeline. The currently operational pipeline continues straight northwards through the Dakotas and then once in Canada heads west. Perhaps someone would like to take on this route as well! As for us, we will be documenting and following the XL in hopes that it will not become an operational pipeline even if there has been construction I already underway.
We've covered more than 600 miles in our 11 days biking thus far. With some major distance under our belts, and at last a day of pleasant cruising to refresh our spirits a bit, I am feeling stronger and setting my sights again on the road ahead.
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